Topic: ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread - page 46. (Read 129054 times)

What's your coolant?  I know with the S3 I got from a Florida reseller that under performs, when it warms up I get an X.  Are any of your hoses crimped?  Could be the thermal compound isn't well spread on your water block.

I'm using the stock firmware, stock wiring, distilled water coolant,  and my pool shows 1071 GH/s.  Ambient room temp 64°F.

I am using the upgraded firmware. I am getting near 1000 only if I lower my freq to 243.75 and voltage at 0730.  If I use the upgraded firmware settings of 250 freq with 0760 voltage, the first chain shows a few x's after a few minutes...

Thoughts?

I have 6 of these running. I know how to maintain them and get them running. Since it appears to be only happening on one unit, likely a hardware issue. The last thing I need is down time on any hardware or I'll never break even in years.

so, 10.45 amps sound right?

P.F. 0.69, 857-860 Watts, 10.49 amps.

If you want to greatly reduce the dust intake on the C1, this might just be the item (to substitute with the front fan grill).  http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Filter-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=pd_sim_e_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=17TF269TN9NWFT2XP716

Am just about to fire mine up too.  Have just done nmap.  I've run the pump of course in getting the air out but about to apply power to the miner.  I'm trying this with 4 PCIE-8 connectors not 8 only because I don't have the other 4 yet.  If the wires show heat, excessive current, I'll shut down an S3 and get the connectors I need. ...

Hi guys -

Just put my C1 together. Prior to upgrading to latest firmware, all chains showed X across each row...  Now I show this weird thing in chain 1 and a few X's on chain 4...

http://postimg.org/image/3yowupfdz/

Any thoughts?  I am using RM-1000 PSU.

For all you out there with pump problems, I've been running my C1B1 since I got it in the mail with a $8.00 Harbor Freight submersible fountain pump with a Home Depot paint bucket for a reservoir.  I read all the horror stories about the Syscooling pump so I figured I'd try the HF one to see what happens.  I thought I'd use the Sys pump when the HF one gave up but so far I've had no problems.

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In other places it mentions copper in the radiator.

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What other places?

Everything I have read says that it is a an Aluminum Radiator.
On  both the Bitmain website and the Syscooling website.

Thanks.  Am sitting here waiting for delivery within the next few hours and the thought arises: where did I leave my Teflon tape last?

I wonder if this is a positive displacement pump.  A positive displacement pump might have two gears meshing in the center while fluid is forced around the gears outer sides.  Or a positive displacement pump might be a flexible tube inside a semicircle and an inner circular drive wheel having rollers on the outside compressing the tube against semicircle forcing fluid in the direction of rotation.  Or a positive displacement pump might be a pump with a piston and valves.  A non-positive displacement pump would be like a jet pump.

In other places it mentions copper in the radiator. The chambers are definitely coated with something, and the connectors (and inside the threads) with something also. It doesn't cost much more to be safe, rather than slowly ruining a C1 and cooling kit.

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So no difficulty seeing air bubbles thru the clear tubing while getting the air out? 

Mine was suppose to arrive today but I screwed up and used my PO Box as a UPS shipping address.  It's out for delivery but will head back to the office after customer hours so am told I can't get it until tomorrow.

Was thinking of distilled water with food coloring but if the clear tubing stains that won't work well.
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Doggie's guide it very helpful if you have no water cooling experience, make sure you pay attention to the water flow around your setup the guide has pictures just follow them.

I like having my cooling rig running from my psu not my C1 as I could run the pump and get the fluid sorted without any C1 issues.

As far as air bubbles go, the main thing is read the guide filling the pump res while holding it above the C1 and Rad means you can get a lot of air out at the start, then you just need to cycle the power a few times as the res can empty out into the rig as the air comes out. I think I refilled mine 4 times or so ( As i was using Distilled water its not that messy with proper fluid I would use a filler bottle).

Don't forget to rotate your rad, I rotated my C1 a few times to get some of the last bubbles out some were quite big.

Oh Doggie mentioned we should use PC cooling fluid as the Distilled water has issues over the long term. I am ordering that as I write this.

Oh and finally the air bubbles should end up in your res so as long and you rotate you main item's around, any air pockets will get back to the res/pump.

good luck
 

I like the quietness of the C1. Very Nice in an apartment. I am wondering what the S5's noise level runs at?

Thinking about breaking down my GPU rig/selling and buying another.. turn them both to solo and hope for a home run.

Mining C1 Cooling kit         
Item    QTY
AT360 Radiator    1
SC-P60 pump    1
N8 Transparent Tube    2.5
4-Fan Wiring Harness, 3-Pin   1
 
Φ11 Hose Clamp    10
R45Bracket for Radiator    2
G1/8-8 Thread    2
6-32*8 Screw for Bracket    2
 
Specification:
PUMP   SC-P60 Water cooling pump
    Max Pumping Height    3.0m
   Max Fow    450L/h
   Volume   80 ml
   Life Expectancy   50000h
   Bearing    Ceramic bearing
   Max current   1.2A
   Max voltage   DC12V
   Noise    23 DB
   Size    56mm*56mm*63.5mm（not include output and input connection and cushion ）
   Connection threads:   G1/4 thread fitting.
Radiator    AT360 Aluminum Radiator
    Material    Aluminum
   size   405×119.5×27mm
   Connection Way    G1/4screw threads and barb ID ：6mm/8mm /10mm
   Finishing    Painting
               
The waterpump SC-P60         
Radiator   AT360         
fan    120mm x 25mm         
tube   N8         

The provided cooling radiator is Aluminum.

The heat capacity of water over EG doesn't impact performance that considerably as the bottleneck for heat removal is the dissipation of heat from the radiator (not to the radiator, or block to water). It is measurable, but its not important to us.

Well, the corrosion shown at a water block port was likely caused by the use of hard tap water.  Distilled water alone would have slowed that way down.  Distilled water with an ion filter it likely won't happen.  We're talking about a 50% increase in heat carrying capability over ethylene glycol.  When you use the phrase "in the long run" you must be addressing those getting free electric. e.g. padding their office expenses as for the rest of us profitability might not last long beyond recovering cost.  Look at the Jalapeno.

Go with the coolant.   What ever you save initially you will pay more in the long run if you don't have coolant or additives if you truly have to go with water.

So the provided cooling radiator is copper?   That's a surprise.

Because water carries 50% more heat than ethylene glycol, the basic ingredient in most antifreeze coolant,  I want to use distilled water (~.68 cents/gallon in Walmart) and perhaps rig up a PVC water filter with the guts from a quality water filter advertising removal of metal ions.

Beta-amyloid, the stuff implicated in causing Alzheimers Disease, is linked to two copper and a zinc molecule(s).  So, with copper piping in most  homes built last century, many are struggling to get the copper out of their water.  Copper removing filters are available.

So no difficulty seeing air bubbles thru the clear tubing while getting the air out? 

Mine was suppose to arrive today but I screwed up and used my PO Box as a UPS shipping address.  It's out for delivery but will head back to the office after customer hours so am told I can't get it until tomorrow.

Was thinking of distilled water with food coloring but if the clear tubing stains that won't work well.