Topic: ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread - page 49. (Read 129130 times)

Hello

Opentoe, I know one person with the same problem with one C1 bath 1.

We configure the miners with standard voltage 0725, the chips to 256Mhz save and aply. Wait 1 minute for save and apply and turn off the miner 1 minutes. Turn on and wait 10 minutes. In the hash rate is less of 900Gh, we continue turn off, wait 1 minute and turn on again until the hast rate is near or 1Th.

Please, is important wait 1 minutes  between turn off and turn on.

Regards.
Antuam.

I have a C1 that's slowly dying on me.

Power supply checked.
Raised voltage to 760.
Checked pump.
Tried different pools.
Checked all connections.
Re-flashed.
Tried different out in house.


So what's going on now? I've only had a few weeks of problem free mining with these guys, then it is constant attention and tinkering to get them to hash normally. Starting to drive me crazy. Thinking of selling all my C1's and just get another Spondoolie. They are as stable as our earth's orbit.

The temps are good. No X's. What's the problem now?

Any high quality 1200-1500CFM ball fan will do. Some of the better ones have lifetime warranty, which you can't beat. WWW.NEWEGG.COM carries a lot of different fans.

Someone asked if the fans would slow down if the temps were lower
My fans slow down to 1200 on 2 of my C1's and 1320 on the other when the temps are low ( 20c)

0725, that was the default for the image I used, haven't had any X on the ASICs

The first harness did this it was not the greatest.  If you make one with higher quality wire and keep wires from touching each other it could work.

I would personally go for molex to fan connector.  You get a constant speed. With it you don't get a variable speed, but you will always have it being powered when unit is on.  Also saves troubles you will see twords first of thread.

Has anyone tried this?  Could feedback response time be a problem?  Constantly running the pump at a set speed that would be less a problem but slow that fluid down and this could warm up quickly. 

I suspect I will absolutely need an outdoor pre-cooler once it gets warm this spring.  I have a thermostat circuit I use for a DIY egg incubator.  Less difficult controlling a 12vdc pump to put water onto an outdoor pre-cooler that will have air passing over it.  The system isn't pressurized so the sensor can be mounted in the water outflow of the pre-cooler.  I lived in Tuson back in the early 1970's and the place had a cooler on the roof.  A large box-like enclosure with the 4 sides having material much like air conditioning filter material.  Water would pass down thru the material and in the center air was sucked into the home.  It's very dry in Arizona so it worked there without the home becoming too humid.  Running water over an outdoor pre-cooler wouldn't raise the humidity of the home here.  Georgia is much more humid than Arizona.

You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers

That's a good idea, if you want to add some control you could wack the pump and others through a fan controller (making sure it can take the W per channel of a pump first!). Although, why exactly do you want to lower the pump, its probably saving you power by running at max rpm and keeping board temps cooler.

If you want variable you could buy a fan controller to hook to them.  But Dogie is correct about all the watercooling in most cases being constant.

The only variable fan is the C1's fan, which plugs in directly to one of the PCBs and is software controlled.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

It's been a warm winter the single polar vortex-like drop notwithstanding.    Outside in the shade right now this Dec. 26 is 55.6°.  If I go to an outdoor pre-cooler for summer heat, perhaps dripping water on the pre-cooler will help.

Maybe putting a de-ionizing sink water filter in the circuit of having a copper radiator and running pure distilled water.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.  One might find a Kleinschmidt tester from a WWII submarine and periodically test the fluid's conductivity and simply replace when it rises.  I wonder how auto antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water tests for conductivity.  I think it's the use of tap water with its potentially high conductivity even mixed with auto antifreeze that might be damaging.  The lubricating properties of auto antifreeze is attractive for its pump life extension.  Down here in the south it's necessary to run 50% distilled water with the antifreeze in mid-summer as water has a better heat carrying capability then antifreeze.  Still, if one were adding an outdoor cooler in addition to the stock radiator perhaps pure auto antifreeze would be sufficient.  

Most newer auto radiators are aluminum core clamped to plastic tops and bottoms.  The plastic cracks in an accident but that could be repaired with epoxy as in our use the system isn't pressurized - leave the radiator cap loose outside.  A typical electric heater in a home might be 1200 watts.  A C1 putting out 850 watts is unreasonable indoors in the summer.  Putting the stock radiator facing out a window is an option but you'll be sucking in an equal amount of hot air from outside.  Putting the stock radiator completely outside will only cool to the outside ambient.  If instead one adds an outside car radiator to pre-cool, then with the stock radiator inside it would only need to cool down fluid that's at outside ambient and since the stock radiator will be inside it will drop the temp to whatever one has the room cooled to.  This leave most of the heat outside.

What is your voltage setting? 0760?

Any PC watercooling fluid, its more expensive but it'll do what you're asking.

I've had mine beep during the original setup - the buzzer is on the FPGA board the BBB plugs into. If you have backup pools enabled and you still get beeping your internet connection or router probably sucks.

I'm new to liquid cooling computers, but remember it was stated to not use copper radiators.  Is there a way (liquid) to use a copper radiator(s) with the C1 to prevent the corrosion caused by mixing the two metals?