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Topic: ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread - page 49. (Read 129054 times)

legendary
Activity: 1722
Merit: 1005
December 27, 2014, 03:57:38 AM
Hello

Opentoe, I know one person with the same problem with one C1 bath 1.

We configure the miners with standard voltage 0725, the chips to 256Mhz save and aply. Wait 1 minute for save and apply and turn off the miner 1 minutes. Turn on and wait 10 minutes. In the hash rate is less of 900Gh, we continue turn off, wait 1 minute and turn on again until the hast rate is near or 1Th.

Please, is important wait 1 minutes  between turn off and turn on.

Regards.
Antuam.
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1000
Personal text my ass....
December 27, 2014, 03:04:40 AM
I have a C1 that's slowly dying on me.

Power supply checked.
Raised voltage to 760.
Checked pump.
Tried different pools.
Checked all connections.
Re-flashed.
Tried different out in house.


So what's going on now? I've only had a few weeks of problem free mining with these guys, then it is constant attention and tinkering to get them to hash normally. Starting to drive me crazy. Thinking of selling all my C1's and just get another Spondoolie. They are as stable as our earth's orbit.

The temps are good. No X's. What's the problem now?


legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1000
Personal text my ass....
December 27, 2014, 02:43:07 AM
C1 arrived in a record time. Miner is ok, but the cooling kit is the worst thing i have ever seen. The water pump leaked on the first power up and died after 1 minute work, wiring for the fans is bad soldered and the wires are so thin, tubes for the radiators soften if the miner has temperature over 40C. They should take care about this. Syscool should raise the price for 5-10 usd and sell quality not quantity ! ! ! Next purchase will be only miner. I dont need crap

Only bad thing about this miner is the cooling kit. I replaced my defective fans (the ones Bitmain wouldn't honor with an RMA on a brand new C1) with a high quality high CFM, but quiet fan and is keeping my temps down 2 degrees across the board.



I had one broken fan - out of the box.

What make/model of fan did use for the replacement?


Any high quality 1200-1500CFM ball fan will do. Some of the better ones have lifetime warranty, which you can't beat. WWW.NEWEGG.COM carries a lot of different fans.
newbie
Activity: 21
Merit: 0
December 27, 2014, 01:31:29 AM
Someone asked if the fans would slow down if the temps were lower
My fans slow down to 1200 on 2 of my C1's and 1320 on the other when the temps are low ( 20c)

sr. member
Activity: 452
Merit: 250
December 26, 2014, 11:45:10 PM
Seems like as long as the SD card is good, the C1 is a very reliable miner. I had some issues with mine on startup but wiping the SD card and uploading Dogie's original disk image got me up and running.

Anyone have better uptime yet?



What is your voltage setting? 0760?

0725, that was the default for the image I used, haven't had any X on the ASICs
legendary
Activity: 1456
Merit: 1000
December 26, 2014, 10:49:27 PM
You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers

Has anyone tried this?  Could feedback response time be a problem?  Constantly running the pump at a set speed that would be less a problem but slow that fluid down and this could warm up quickly. 

I suspect I will absolutely need an outdoor pre-cooler once it gets warm this spring.  I have a thermostat circuit I use for a DIY egg incubator.  Less difficult controlling a 12vdc pump to put water onto an outdoor pre-cooler that will have air passing over it.  The system isn't pressurized so the sensor can be mounted in the water outflow of the pre-cooler.  I lived in Tuson back in the early 1970's and the place had a cooler on the roof.  A large box-like enclosure with the 4 sides having material much like air conditioning filter material.  Water would pass down thru the material and in the center air was sucked into the home.  It's very dry in Arizona so it worked there without the home becoming too humid.  Running water over an outdoor pre-cooler wouldn't raise the humidity of the home here.  Georgia is much more humid than Arizona.

The first harness did this it was not the greatest.  If you make one with higher quality wire and keep wires from touching each other it could work.

I would personally go for molex to fan connector.  You get a constant speed. With it you don't get a variable speed, but you will always have it being powered when unit is on.  Also saves troubles you will see twords first of thread.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
December 26, 2014, 10:13:36 PM
You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers

Has anyone tried this?  Could feedback response time be a problem?  Constantly running the pump at a set speed that would be less a problem but slow that fluid down and this could warm up quickly. 

I suspect I will absolutely need an outdoor pre-cooler once it gets warm this spring.  I have a thermostat circuit I use for a DIY egg incubator.  Less difficult controlling a 12vdc pump to put water onto an outdoor pre-cooler that will have air passing over it.  The system isn't pressurized so the sensor can be mounted in the water outflow of the pre-cooler.  I lived in Tuson back in the early 1970's and the place had a cooler on the roof.  A large box-like enclosure with the 4 sides having material much like air conditioning filter material.  Water would pass down thru the material and in the center air was sucked into the home.  It's very dry in Arizona so it worked there without the home becoming too humid.  Running water over an outdoor pre-cooler wouldn't raise the humidity of the home here.  Georgia is much more humid than Arizona.
grn
sr. member
Activity: 357
Merit: 252
December 26, 2014, 09:49:45 PM
You could plug the pump directly to one of the hashing board headers
legendary
Activity: 1666
Merit: 1185
dogiecoin.com
December 26, 2014, 08:22:10 PM
If you want variable you could buy a fan controller to hook to them.  But Dogie is correct about all the watercooling in most cases being constant.

That's a good idea, if you want to add some control you could wack the pump and others through a fan controller (making sure it can take the W per channel of a pump first!). Although, why exactly do you want to lower the pump, its probably saving you power by running at max rpm and keeping board temps cooler.
legendary
Activity: 1456
Merit: 1000
December 26, 2014, 08:19:19 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

The only variable fan is the C1's fan, which plugs in directly to one of the PCBs and is software controlled.

If you want variable you could buy a fan controller to hook to them.  But Dogie is correct about all the watercooling in most cases being constant.
legendary
Activity: 1666
Merit: 1185
dogiecoin.com
December 26, 2014, 07:11:09 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

The only variable fan is the C1's fan, which plugs in directly to one of the PCBs and is software controlled.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
December 26, 2014, 03:42:36 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.

So do the fans on the cooler have a controller board that vary those fan rates?

It's been a warm winter the single polar vortex-like drop notwithstanding.    Outside in the shade right now this Dec. 26 is 55.6°.  If I go to an outdoor pre-cooler for summer heat, perhaps dripping water on the pre-cooler will help.

Maybe putting a de-ionizing sink water filter in the circuit of having a copper radiator and running pure distilled water.
legendary
Activity: 1666
Merit: 1185
dogiecoin.com
December 26, 2014, 02:48:37 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

My pump at least is constant RPM and doesn't vary. The C1's fan does vary with chip temps, but is very conservative until things really start to heat up.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
December 26, 2014, 02:29:09 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.

Ethylene Glycol has a heat carrying capacity only half of pure water.  It's also used as a desiccant (from the Wiki).   We aren't talking about sufficient heat to vaporize water in the miner heatsink so perhaps the Ethylene Glycol alone will be good enough.  Reduced heat carrying capacity would mean that some ASICs will be running hotter at the output.

Not having a C1 yet I wonder if the pump speed varies or simply runs continually.  I've read some posts about running the cooler fans from an unused fan connector on a C1 hashing board.

Pure water would carry the most heat away so if the pump runs constantly at a set volume per minute and if the fans are made to run relative to the mid-hashing board heat sensor, pure water means less fan usage, better hash rates, generally lower temps if the pump runs constantly.

Listening to my two S3+'s and two S3's in an unheated room with windows open, it gets very quiet at sub-65°F.

legendary
Activity: 1666
Merit: 1185
dogiecoin.com
December 26, 2014, 01:42:20 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.

Even distilled water / distilled water mixes are going to contribute to the problem after a while. I personally would stick to a premix / non water base.
soy
legendary
Activity: 1428
Merit: 1013
December 26, 2014, 01:08:33 PM
I would think even with connecting a copper radiator to an aluminum heatsink if one used distilled water it would be okay for a while.  As the water accepted ions it would start to become conductive.  One might find a Kleinschmidt tester from a WWII submarine and periodically test the fluid's conductivity and simply replace when it rises.  I wonder how auto antifreeze mixed 50/50 with distilled water tests for conductivity.  I think it's the use of tap water with its potentially high conductivity even mixed with auto antifreeze that might be damaging.  The lubricating properties of auto antifreeze is attractive for its pump life extension.  Down here in the south it's necessary to run 50% distilled water with the antifreeze in mid-summer as water has a better heat carrying capability then antifreeze.  Still, if one were adding an outdoor cooler in addition to the stock radiator perhaps pure auto antifreeze would be sufficient.  

Most newer auto radiators are aluminum core clamped to plastic tops and bottoms.  The plastic cracks in an accident but that could be repaired with epoxy as in our use the system isn't pressurized - leave the radiator cap loose outside.  A typical electric heater in a home might be 1200 watts.  A C1 putting out 850 watts is unreasonable indoors in the summer.  Putting the stock radiator facing out a window is an option but you'll be sucking in an equal amount of hot air from outside.  Putting the stock radiator completely outside will only cool to the outside ambient.  If instead one adds an outside car radiator to pre-cool, then with the stock radiator inside it would only need to cool down fluid that's at outside ambient and since the stock radiator will be inside it will drop the temp to whatever one has the room cooled to.  This leave most of the heat outside.

newbie
Activity: 14
Merit: 0
December 26, 2014, 09:57:32 AM
Seems like as long as the SD card is good, the C1 is a very reliable miner. I had some issues with mine on startup but wiping the SD card and uploading Dogie's original disk image got me up and running.

Anyone have better uptime yet?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1181169/C1.png

What is your voltage setting? 0760?
legendary
Activity: 1666
Merit: 1185
dogiecoin.com
December 25, 2014, 03:29:49 PM
I'm new to liquid cooling computers, but remember it was stated to not use copper radiators.  Is there a way (liquid) to use a copper radiator(s) with the C1 to prevent the corrosion caused by mixing the two metals?

Any PC watercooling fluid, its more expensive but it'll do what you're asking.
sr. member
Activity: 452
Merit: 250
December 25, 2014, 03:27:30 PM
Hi all!

Is this miner like de crazy s3 beeper of all beeps? i got s1 and beeps, s2 not much beeps, s3 is the king as it's waking me up in the night, few times/week!

I need a quiet miner for a family member with not so deep pockets and in need of heat!

Is this miner a beeper like s3?

Thank you!

I've never ever heard mine beep. And looking at my pictures, I don't think there even is a buzzer on them because they're BBB based.

I've had mine beep during the original setup - the buzzer is on the FPGA board the BBB plugs into. If you have backup pools enabled and you still get beeping your internet connection or router probably sucks.
sr. member
Activity: 338
Merit: 250
December 25, 2014, 02:49:37 PM
I'm new to liquid cooling computers, but remember it was stated to not use copper radiators.  Is there a way (liquid) to use a copper radiator(s) with the C1 to prevent the corrosion caused by mixing the two metals?
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