or i also use this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPJQOO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00
as long as your very care full putting it on A S5 it works great . but that about any thing be care full with it all ) .
notlist3d ive used that to it seems to work about the same as any good paste .
or use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009B0K2I?keywords=heat%20sink%20pads&qid=1444251564&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
heat sink pads ive been temped to try key word there is try but get the right ones like the tubes and the old gblack grindseeds use.
Topic: ANTMINER S5: 1155GH(+OverClock Potential), In Stock $0.319/GH & 0.51W/GH - page 21. (Read 451266 times)
October 07, 2015, 03:54:17 PM
October 07, 2015, 03:48:16 PM
for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side 
.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU . .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.
. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU .
.same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.Hmm, AS5 was the best for a long time but for a while now, some thermal grease have even better thermal conductivity now. But regardless, i'm not sure i want to put conductive silver paste on there.
I already have some grease that would do the job regardless, i was just expecting to need to paste the whole board. If its just a drop on the chip, i might be able to do it with what i have!
Thanks
I will try all of this and report my results...
Depending on what you need you also might take a look at here - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AVMRR0?keywords=thermal%20compound&qid=1444250716&ref_=sr_1_8&sr=8-8
The nice thing about that one is if you do it and it does not work or seems like errors you can redo easily. It just comes with a ton of paste. I used it when my C1 needed re pasted I thought atleast. I also got cleaner and purifier in case a mistake to clean it up nicely.
I was a little over prepared but if your like me and no local store sells this kinda stuff it's nice to have.
October 07, 2015, 03:42:41 PM
for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side .
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU . .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.
. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU .
.same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.Hmm, AS5 was the best for a long time but for a while now, some thermal grease have even better thermal conductivity now. But regardless, i'm not sure i want to put conductive silver paste on there.
I already have some grease that would do the job regardless, i was just expecting to need to paste the whole board. If its just a drop on the chip, i might be able to do it with what i have!
Thanks
I will try all of this and report my results...
October 07, 2015, 03:11:40 PM
for paste one of these is more then enough and put on each chip on the heat sink side .
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU . .same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is.
. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I have tried it with a lot and with a very small drop per chip either way seems to cool about the same with a lot or or with out a lot . these thing are not real PC in the sense the CPU needs just enough paste to make sure it contacts to heat sink with no space more on a real PC can be bad for the CPU .
.same kind of here but less or more won't mater as much from win i tested it .The kind of paste will and Arctic Silver paste is the best you can get for anything it seems i do know there is better but off hand can't renumber what brand that's how good it is. October 07, 2015, 03:06:16 PM
That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try mybad .
Okay thank you very much for all the information. I'm still itching to try it with the heatsink on. So if you or anyone else has more information on this, for or against, i'm all ears.
I kind of feel like i don't want to spend money on getting more stuff than i already have on hand since i have no guarantee that this will allow the board to function. Hence, kind of wasted money.
In the other hand, if i remove the heatsink and bake the PCB. I can probably run it without thermal paste real quick to see if it works? And then if it work it would be worth buying all that thermal paste that i otherwise have no use for.
That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try mybad .if one try doesn't work try again maybe i should have said and increases the time each time and keep a eye on it while it cooks .one try might not work but it's safe to plug into the controller and power after one try with no paste just feel board if it stats getting hot it worked i wouldn't wait for any lites to come on with no cooling unless you can time it right .
you can i guess look it up im being safe i read some place some had to and it worked to with heat sinks on .
I didn't find anything. I did find a few mention of "I guess i'Ll try to reflow my pcb." relating to S3's and such, but not much else so i'm having problem comparing my plan with user experience here.
But beside the paste liquefying and leaking to the side of the heatsink, i don't really see any issue, since it already do fine when heated hot. The heatsink would be under the PCB, so nothing would leak unto the PCB.
Thinking like this is why i am keeping the option of keeping the heatsink on while doing the soldering reflow.
If i wait a bit maybe someone will post what they know.
I would definitely do it with the heatsink off, just much less mass to heat so less time needed. Also I would turn the Controller Frequency right down to 100MHz will significantly reduce the current for the quick test.
Rich
Rich
Thank you, i will keep that in mind, the spare s5 controller i have is set to 150mhz, it will be no problem to lower it further from there.
Now that you mention the mass thing, yeah maybe i should do it without. It will just be a pain to repaste, since i do not know how much paste i will need.
October 07, 2015, 03:02:45 PM
I would definitely do it with the heatsink off, just much less mass to heat so less time needed. Also I would turn the Controller Frequency right down to 100MHz will significantly reduce the current for the quick test without the heatsink.
Rich
Rich
October 07, 2015, 02:53:17 PM
That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try mybad .
Okay thank you very much for all the information. I'm still itching to try it with the heatsink on. So if you or anyone else has more information on this, for or against, i'm all ears.
I kind of feel like i don't want to spend money on getting more stuff than i already have on hand since i have no guarantee that this will allow the board to function. Hence, kind of wasted money.
In the other hand, if i remove the heatsink and bake the PCB. I can probably run it without thermal paste real quick to see if it works? And then if it work it would be worth buying all that thermal paste that i otherwise have no use for.
That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try mybad .if one try doesn't work try again maybe i should have said and increases the time each time and keep a eye on it while it cooks .one try might not work but it's safe to plug into the controller and power after one try with no paste just feel board if it stats getting hot it worked i wouldn't wait for any lites to come on with no cooling unless you can time it right .
you can i guess look it up im being safe i read some place some had to and it worked to with heat sinks on .or ask i sidehack in a PM i forgot hes good for that kind of advice , but he may tell you don't can't say or give better advice .
October 07, 2015, 02:49:39 PM
That's max sorry 5 to 10 mins is best but try not to go over 15 per try mybad .
Okay thank you very much for all the information. I'm still itching to try it with the heatsink on. So if you or anyone else has more information on this, for or against, i'm all ears.
I kind of feel like i don't want to spend money on getting more stuff than i already have on hand since i have no guarantee that this will allow the board to function. Hence, kind of wasted money.
In the other hand, if i remove the heatsink and bake the PCB. I can probably run it without thermal paste real quick to see if it works? And then if it work it would be worth buying all that thermal paste that i otherwise have no use for.
October 07, 2015, 02:42:09 PM
bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins
Be careful with F or C. One will have your chips sitting in a pile in the bottom of the oven.
Pretty sure thats in F. But i'd still like more information on this. I'm not going to slap my S5 blade in an oven because someone told me to before properly understanding the risk even though i understand the concept.
Yep. Solder melts at 180-190C.
What you're doing here is if there are any stress-fractures in the solder which are causing issues, you are hoping the solder will melt just a little and reform a good joint. It's not a great way to do it but it's cheap.
Personally I would first inspect all solder joints with a magnifying glass. These joints can sometimes be seen. Additionally, it looks like most of the joints are accessible so you possibly could attempt this with just a soldering iron.
Personally, I'm a bit skeptical given that the chips are reporting good but I don't know enough to speak with confidence and someone else is reporting that the reflow worked for him. If nothing else seems to help though...
Edit: Just went back and saw it reported --- when run in tandem so I'm no longer very skeptical.
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
I've had success in the past with a bit of flux and some copper solder wick to clean up botched solder on ICs. You'll need the right flat tip and an iron with adjustable temp, don't attempt this with a dollar store soldering iron. If there's insufficient solder on the IC then just glob it on and wick it off, add flux if it starts to clump. The solder should be shiny, covering the leads in a super thin layer. You shouldn't see any bulk at all. Use a moist sponge to clean the iron tip constantly.
Hope this is helpful.
I have this iron;
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003X5PENW/ref=pe_386430_126088100_TE_item
And this desoldering braid;
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00424S2C8/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1
I never heard of that flux thing, so i'll probably have to google it but in any case i don't have it on hand.
don't forget thu this is a resort thing it may not work and may work when done right .
if it works, your S5, is back to life if it doesn't you gave it a good one ..
try not exceed 15 mins at 350 or lower , leave it in the oven after it's done with the door open, let it air cool .above all PREHEAT THE OVEN FIRST DON"T MAKE MY MISTAKE AND HAVE STUFF MELT it s not a real reflow oven were you can do that.
if it works, your S5, is back to life if it doesn't you gave it a good one .
.try not exceed 15 mins at 350 or lower , leave it in the oven after it's done with the door open, let it air cool .above all PREHEAT THE OVEN FIRST DON"T MAKE MY MISTAKE AND HAVE STUFF MELT it s not a real reflow oven were you can do that.
Okay so i can't do this without having thermal paste to repaste it afterwards i'll do a research on how much paste i'm going to need.
And one time you said 10 mins, one time 15 mins and someone else said 5 minutes. How long should i really leave it in the oven?
October 07, 2015, 02:30:51 PM
don't forget thu this is a resort thing it may not work and may work when done right .
if it works, your S5, is back to life if it doesn't you gave it a good one ..
try not exceed 15 mins at 350 or lower , leave it in the oven after it's done with the door open, let it air cool .above all PREHEAT THE OVEN FIRST DON"T MAKE MY MISTAKE AND HAVE STUFF MELT by sticking it in the oven while it preheats it's not a real reflow oven were you can do that.
if it works, your S5, is back to life if it doesn't you gave it a good one .
.try not exceed 15 mins at 350 or lower , leave it in the oven after it's done with the door open, let it air cool .above all PREHEAT THE OVEN FIRST DON"T MAKE MY MISTAKE AND HAVE STUFF MELT by sticking it in the oven while it preheats it's not a real reflow oven were you can do that.
October 07, 2015, 02:23:19 PM
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
Capacitors often look just like resistors with SMT (small rectangular blocks). If you google "solder dry joint" you'll get an idea of what you might be looking for. All the parts on the board should be designed to withstand that temperature (though there may be labels etc added after the board was assembled)
Oh okay, i was expecting some sort of hub of connections. Thats just actually what a soldered point is called. Gotcha xD
Okay i'll start with that. But should i remove the heatsink and look behind? Or should i just leave it there since i don't have any new paste to put on it afterward?
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
I,d do it with the oven, just wondering if someone actually did it with a antminer blade. I can put it on alluminium or something. And wouldnt the cheap plastic plug pci-e melt at 180c?
I did it with one antminer S5 blade and it worked and got it off some one else on the forums that posted a how to with a heat gun .
I see, yeah i would do it in the oven. Did you leave the heatsink on ?
take off any thing you can remove first.
If i do that, wont the thermal paste liquify and drop off, and then i'll need to repaste the heatsink, meaning i can't do this until i get some paste?
take that off, clean it up good to be safe, i never tried with paste on it made sense to me not to . there is other stuff you can on it that might help like flux etc but no paste .yea repaste it all ways.
October 07, 2015, 02:23:08 PM
bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins
Be careful with F or C. One will have your chips sitting in a pile in the bottom of the oven.
Pretty sure thats in F. But i'd still like more information on this. I'm not going to slap my S5 blade in an oven because someone told me to before properly understanding the risk even though i understand the concept.
Yep. Solder melts at 180-190C.
What you're doing here is if there are any stress-fractures in the solder which are causing issues, you are hoping the solder will melt just a little and reform a good joint. It's not a great way to do it but it's cheap.
Personally I would first inspect all solder joints with a magnifying glass. These joints can sometimes be seen. Additionally, it looks like most of the joints are accessible so you possibly could attempt this with just a soldering iron.
Personally, I'm a bit skeptical given that the chips are reporting good but I don't know enough to speak with confidence and someone else is reporting that the reflow worked for him. If nothing else seems to help though...
Edit: Just went back and saw it reported --- when run in tandem so I'm no longer very skeptical.
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
I've had success in the past with a bit of flux and some copper solder wick to clean up botched solder on ICs. You'll need the right flat tip and an iron with adjustable temp, don't attempt this with a dollar store soldering iron. If there's insufficient solder on the IC then just glob it on and wick it off, add flux if it starts to clump. The solder should be shiny, covering the leads in a super thin layer. You shouldn't see any bulk at all. Use a moist sponge to clean the iron tip constantly.
Hope this is helpful.
October 07, 2015, 02:17:24 PM
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
Capacitors often look just like resistors with SMT (small rectangular blocks). If you google "solder dry joint" you'll get an idea of what you might be looking for. All the parts on the board should be designed to withstand that temperature (though there may be labels etc added after the board was assembled)
Oh okay, i was expecting some sort of hub of connections. Thats just actually what a soldered point is called. Gotcha xD
Okay i'll start with that. But should i remove the heatsink and look behind? Or should i just leave it there since i don't have any new paste to put on it afterward?
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
I,d do it with the oven, just wondering if someone actually did it with a antminer blade. I can put it on alluminium or something. And wouldnt the cheap plastic plug pci-e melt at 180c?
I did it with one antminer S5 blade and it worked and got it off some one else on the forums that posted a how to with a heat gun .
I see, yeah i would do it in the oven. Did you leave the heatsink on ?
take off any thing you can remove first.
If i do that, wont the thermal paste liquify and drop off, and then i'll need to repaste the heatsink, meaning i can't do this until i get some paste?
October 07, 2015, 02:15:02 PM
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
Capacitors often look just like resistors with SMT (small rectangular blocks). If you google "solder dry joint" you'll get an idea of what you might be looking for. All the parts on the board should be designed to withstand that temperature (though there may be labels etc added after the board was assembled)
Oh okay, i was expecting some sort of hub of connections. Thats just actually what a soldered point is called. Gotcha xD
Okay i'll start with that. But should i remove the heatsink and look behind? Or should i just leave it there since i don't have any new paste to put on it afterward?
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
I,d do it with the oven, just wondering if someone actually did it with a antminer blade. I can put it on alluminium or something. And wouldnt the cheap plastic plug pci-e melt at 180c?
I did it with one antminer S5 blade and it worked and got it off some one else on the forums that posted a how to with a heat gun .
I see, yeah i would do it in the oven. Did you leave the heatsink on ?
take off any thing you can remove first. labels any lose thing that comes off don't force off anything you normally wouldn't take off. and only do this as a last resort as all the guides on the web tell you what have you got lose it wont make it any worse it's not working to start with
. October 07, 2015, 02:10:03 PM
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
Capacitors often look just like resistors with SMT (small rectangular blocks). If you google "solder dry joint" you'll get an idea of what you might be looking for. All the parts on the board should be designed to withstand that temperature (though there may be labels etc added after the board was assembled)
Oh okay, i was expecting some sort of hub of connections. Thats just actually what a soldered point is called. Gotcha xD
Okay i'll start with that. But should i remove the heatsink and look behind? Or should i just leave it there since i don't have any new paste to put on it afterward?
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
I,d do it with the oven, just wondering if someone actually did it with a antminer blade. I can put it on alluminium or something. And wouldnt the cheap plastic plug pci-e melt at 180c?
I did it with one antminer S5 blade and it worked and got it off some one else on the forums that posted a how to with a heat gun .
I see, yeah i would do it in the oven. Did you leave the heatsink on ?
October 07, 2015, 02:07:45 PM
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
I,d do it with the oven, just wondering if someone actually did it with a antminer blade. I can put it on alluminium or something. And wouldnt the cheap plastic plug pci-e melt at 180c?
I did it with one antminer S5 blade and it worked and got it off some one else on the forums that posted a how to with a heat gun . it wont melt as long you don't over 400 or leave in the oven past 10 mins i think it is or use tin foil on the parts you don't want to much heat on or use some kind of heat tape on those parts i forget what it's called. but you don't want to stick it in while it is preheating bad idea trust me on that one I learned the hard way things will melt preheat it first. btw that's how most boards are mass soldiered in a reflow oven pretty much the same way .
October 07, 2015, 02:05:22 PM
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
Capacitors often look just like resistors with SMT (small rectangular blocks). If you google "solder dry joint" you'll get an idea of what you might be looking for. All the parts on the board should be designed to withstand that temperature (though there may be labels etc added after the board was assembled)
October 07, 2015, 02:01:45 PM
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
I,d do it with the oven, just wondering if someone actually did it with a antminer blade. I can put it on alluminium or something. And wouldnt the cheap plastic plug pci-e melt at 180c?
October 07, 2015, 01:59:07 PM
So i now have a dead PCB, when plugged and the miner otherwise running, the chip will return ------------------------------- and the voltage across the board is 0. When ran alone it will report oooooooooooooooooooooooooo but won't hash anyways.
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
Any thoughts? Any thing that can be easily checked to know if the board is salvageable?
There is something you can try but may need a oven and bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins then let it set with the door open till it cools off that worked for one of my S5 that was reporting the same thing . it's worth a try if it's not working now, other wise it may have gone bad . There was a post in German once that explained what it may be with one of the little grays things near the PCIE plug that may need to be placed,
I've used the range to repair my router in the past, cooking a populated PCBs sure stinks like hell!
I would hope he looks that up first to if hes gonna try it and not do it in a oven he cooks his food in . go buy a cheap toaster oven.
here is more on it
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reflow_soldering
you all most do the same thing making a PCB board .it called Reflow Soldering, had to find out what it is called .
how to
http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/
It can work and did for me on one of my S5 some time ago but that S5 has sense gone up because i did some really stupid stuff to it that made the hash boards beyond repair other then having it thorn a part and fixed that way .
Preheat the oven first that's a must DO, don't do what i did, stick it in while it preheated .
I really did not expect this as a troubleshoot. I'd be inclined to try it, reviving it is probably worth more than anything i can get for it. And hopefully this won't damage the chips?
I do have a mini oven but i'm not sure i can trust the meter. If i do it in my main oven and slap a fan in it for a day or two to air it up, would it be fine?
Also the link http://www.computerrepairtips.net/how-to-reflow-a-laptop-motherboard/ is dead to me, does someone else has a trustable guide for doing this?
you can do it in your oven i wouldn't because of what might comes off the board and can mix in food . I know a few have and said they clean it out good , im just being safe . there are guides all over the webb for doing it they all say about the same thing, or you can use a heat gun but be care full using one of those it takes some skill to balance the heat with a heat gun which does the same thing .
type in some thing like re baking my amd card , cooking my video card or using a Reflow oven there is actually some really nice guides that take you thu a a step step process for making your own oven. that can cost any were form 100 to a 1000 or more if you bought off a company .
October 07, 2015, 01:44:27 PM
bake it at 350 degree for 5 mins
Be careful with F or C. One will have your chips sitting in a pile in the bottom of the oven.
Pretty sure thats in F. But i'd still like more information on this. I'm not going to slap my S5 blade in an oven because someone told me to before properly understanding the risk even though i understand the concept.
Yep. Solder melts at 180-190C.
What you're doing here is if there are any stress-fractures in the solder which are causing issues, you are hoping the solder will melt just a little and reform a good joint. It's not a great way to do it but it's cheap.
Personally I would first inspect all solder joints with a magnifying glass. These joints can sometimes be seen. Additionally, it looks like most of the joints are accessible so you possibly could attempt this with just a soldering iron.
Personally, I'm a bit skeptical given that the chips are reporting good but I don't know enough to speak with confidence and someone else is reporting that the reflow worked for him. If nothing else seems to help though...
Edit: Just went back and saw it reported --- when run in tandem so I'm no longer very skeptical.
I see, i'm not very knowledgeable with circuits but i do have the tools for this, could you tell me more about what to look for? I can tell what a capacitor is because its a cylinder, but you know thats pretty much it.
I could make do with an example however.
Jump to: