Avalon ASIC users thread - page 32. | Bitcointalksearch.org

aneutronic

full member

Activity: 175

Merit: 100

Quote from: mitak64 on January 08, 2014, 01:41:51 PM

With what resistor value did you achieve that ?

I used a 34K soldered on top of the 10.5K R10.

Note that this also increased power consumption to 1240w, probably not worth the hassle now given the escalating difficulty. Undecided

btw, seasonics rock... I've been abusing this 1250w for 3 months now.

*knocks on wood*

loshia

legendary

Activity: 1610

Merit: 1000

Quote from: aneutronic on January 08, 2014, 01:28:56 PM

Quote from: loshia on January 08, 2014, 10:54:34 AM

My bad thanks for clarification Wink

No bad at all... just a slight misunderstanding.
I've gained a lot of knowledge from your posts and have the utmost respect for you.

Quote from: mitak64 on January 08, 2014, 11:46:45 AM

That now is a sick overclock for a 3-module Avalon!
You must have volt-modded it.
What voltage are you providing for 465 Mhz ?

Mine too is a 3-module, but 3 of the 24 sub-modules are dead Sad

~1.29v measured at C1.
It was running between 465 and 468 this morning only due to the extreme temps, lately it's been about 445 - 458.

Thanks dude I am flattered!

mitak64

full member

Activity: 254

Merit: 100

With what resistor value did you achieve that ?

aneutronic

full member

Activity: 175

Merit: 100

Quote from: loshia on January 08, 2014, 10:54:34 AM

My bad thanks for clarification Wink

No bad at all... just a slight misunderstanding.
I've gained a lot of knowledge from your posts and have the utmost respect for you.

Quote from: mitak64 on January 08, 2014, 11:46:45 AM

That now is a sick overclock for a 3-module Avalon!
You must have volt-modded it.
What voltage are you providing for 465 Mhz ?

Mine too is a 3-module, but 3 of the 24 sub-modules are dead Sad

~1.29v measured at C1.
It was running between 465 and 468 this morning only due to the extreme temps, lately it's been about 445 - 458.

mitak64

full member

Activity: 254

Merit: 100

Quote from: aneutronic on January 08, 2014, 08:28:00 AM

Condensation occurs on cold objects placed into warmer more humid air not warm objects in colder air.
Just don't apply power when moving it from cold air to warm air until it acclimates to the change.
A hair dryer works if you're in a hurry and not a bad idea to check for condensation before starting it. Wink

I keep mine in my attic which hit ~ 0F yesterday morning.

That now is a sick overclock for a 3-module Avalon!
You must have volt-modded it.
What voltage are you providing for 465 Mhz ?

Mine too is a 3-module, but 3 of the 24 sub-modules are dead Sad

loshia

legendary

Activity: 1610

Merit: 1000

Quote from: aneutronic on January 08, 2014, 08:28:00 AM

Quote from: loshia on January 08, 2014, 03:30:35 AM

Quote from: mitak64 on January 07, 2014, 04:17:52 PM

My Avalon, enjoying the weather outside Cheesy

Scary

at -12 if i read it correctly some condense may appear when cold air hits aluminum heat sinks Huh

Condensation occurs on cold objects placed into warmer more humid air not warm objects in colder air.
Just don't apply power when moving it from cold air to warm air until it acclimates to the change.
A hair dryer works if you're in a hurry and not a bad idea to check for condensation before starting it. Wink

I keep mine in my attic which hit ~ 0F yesterday morning.

My bad thanks for clarification Wink

h@shKraker

sr. member

Activity: 403

Merit: 250

smoothrunnings,

Thanks for that thread you referenced on Avalon troubleshooting. I've successfully replaced my TP-Link with a Raspberry Pi and the machine is hashing away happily. Thanks for your help.

H@shKraker

aneutronic

full member

Activity: 175

Merit: 100

Quote from: loshia on January 08, 2014, 03:30:35 AM

Quote from: mitak64 on January 07, 2014, 04:17:52 PM

My Avalon, enjoying the weather outside Cheesy

Scary

at -12 if i read it correctly some condense may appear when cold air hits aluminum heat sinks Huh

Condensation occurs on cold objects placed into warmer more humid air not warm objects in colder air.
Just don't apply power when moving it from cold air to warm air until it acclimates to the change.
A hair dryer works if you're in a hurry and not a bad idea to check for condensation before starting it. Wink

I keep mine in my attic which hit ~ 0F yesterday morning.

driksson

sr. member

Activity: 294

Merit: 250

Quote from: loshia on January 08, 2014, 03:30:35 AM

Quote from: mitak64 on January 07, 2014, 04:17:52 PM

My Avalon, enjoying the weather outside Cheesy

Scary

at -12 if i read it correctly some condense may appear when cold air hits aluminum heat sinks Huh

yes, and seems your averages are 1MH above others. I'd move it inside again..

loshia

legendary

Activity: 1610

Merit: 1000

Quote from: mitak64 on January 07, 2014, 04:17:52 PM

My Avalon, enjoying the weather outside Cheesy

Scary

at -12 if i read it correctly some condense may appear when cold air hits aluminum heat sinks Huh

Cheeseater

sr. member

Activity: 351

Merit: 250

found this is the sys log Machine has been solid since disabling wifi and the firmware update. Thanks for all the help.Is the following anything I need to worry about:

Tue Jan 7 22:52:01 2014 cron.info crond[524]: crond: USER root pid 16744 cmd /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
Tue Jan 7 22:54:01 2014 cron.info crond[524]: crond: USER root pid 16753 cmd /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
Tue Jan 7 22:56:01 2014 cron.info crond[524]: crond: USER root pid 16762 cmd /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
Tue Jan 7 22:58:01 2014 cron.info crond[524]: crond: USER root pid 16772 cmd /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
Tue Jan 7 23:00:01 2014 cron.info crond[524]: crond: USER root pid 16850 cmd /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
Huh

mitak64

full member

Activity: 254

Merit: 100

My Avalon, enjoying the weather outside Cheesy

h@shKraker

sr. member

Activity: 403

Merit: 250

smoothrunnings,

NOW we're cooking with gas. Many thanks for that thread link. I feel the "let's replace the TP-Link with a RasPi" option is my path to enlightenment.

H@shKraker

MrTeal

legendary

Activity: 1274

Merit: 1004

Quote from: driksson on January 06, 2014, 04:55:12 AM

Quote from: Bluebark on January 05, 2014, 11:49:55 PM

Quote from: MrTeal on January 05, 2014, 10:49:00 PM

I know some people have mentioned this in the past, but I can't seem to find it any more.

Is there a command or cgminer setup flag through the web UI to restart cgminer automatically after a certain interval? I find using the default router as a host I get quite a few instances (a couple times a day) where cgminer will restart but won't detect the Avalon modules, and has to restarted manually. Power cycling isn't necessary, I can just hit Save&Apply in the config tab to quickly restart cgminer again, and it picks up the controller and starts back up.

Under System|Scheduled Tasks is the Crontab. I found this doing a search... Hope it works

59 2, 15 * * * /sbin/shutdown -r +5

it should reboot at 2:59am and 3:59pm every day.

That will reboot entire unit. which i see as useless. All you need is restarting cgminer.
Mines been running for 30days+ with ok hashrates using this: (only cgminer restart every 3 hours)
*/2 * * * * /usr/bin/cgminer-monitor
0 */3 * * * /etc/init.d/cgminer restart

Excellent, that works well. A little googling helped with the syntax and I switched it up to
*/30 * * * * /etc/init.d/cgminer restart
in order to get it to restart every half hour. A little testing showed that it take about 20 seconds after a restart to have accepted shares at the pool, so even at a half hour it's only 1% downtime.

fasmax

sr. member

Activity: 378

Merit: 250

Quote from: ste0024 on January 06, 2014, 12:14:00 PM

i sell one defective module to fasmax

@ fasmax do you receive my module ?

Not received yet.
Still looking for 1 more defective module that's not mining.

ste0024

sr. member

Activity: 462

Merit: 250

i sell one defective module to fasmax

@ fasmax do you receive my module ?

smoothrunnings

hero member

Activity: 630

Merit: 501

Quote from: fasmax on January 05, 2014, 09:23:38 PM

Quote from: ProfMac on January 05, 2014, 09:06:44 PM

Quote from: fasmax on January 05, 2014, 08:02:23 PM

Quote from: ProfMac on January 05, 2014, 06:08:23 PM

Quote from: smoothrunnings on January 05, 2014, 04:43:46 PM

You would need to replace the entire module, the sub boards are fabricated at one large board which = 1 module.

I am in the same boat as you, my 29 sub board is dead for some reason even though there is nothing burnt on it.

There is a score between pairs of sub modules on some board versions. I have used the heat sink as a support, and snapped the board at the score to remove a dead sub module pair.

Do you think you could have used a dermal tool to cut along the score. Snapping seems a little risky.

I love Dremel tools.

I was very concerned how it would turn out. That is why I placed it on the heat sink, as it is very flat and had a sharp machined edge at exactly the right place to match the score. My board snapped completely cleanly before I had depressed the unsupported end by a finger width.

The reason I ask is because I just bought a broken module from a fellow forum member.
I do not have a controller to use with the module.
I am going to try and separate the module into smaller units and build some Klondike controllers to interface the modules to USB.

Which forum did you find the broken module in, or you posted in?

I wonder too if all you can use a sub from a B2 or B3 in a B1, or if you need to find a B1 sub?

smoothrunnings

hero member

Activity: 630

Merit: 501

Question,

what's the longest PSU you can stick inside a Avy B1 and B2 unit?

Bluebark

newbie

Activity: 41

Merit: 0

Quote from: fasmax on January 05, 2014, 09:23:38 PM

Quote from: ProfMac on January 05, 2014, 09:06:44 PM

Quote from: fasmax on January 05, 2014, 08:02:23 PM

Quote from: ProfMac on January 05, 2014, 06:08:23 PM

Quote from: smoothrunnings on January 05, 2014, 04:43:46 PM

You would need to replace the entire module, the sub boards are fabricated at one large board which = 1 module.

I am in the same boat as you, my 29 sub board is dead for some reason even though there is nothing burnt on it.

There is a score between pairs of sub modules on some board versions. I have used the heat sink as a support, and snapped the board at the score to remove a dead sub module pair.

Do you think you could have used a dermal tool to cut along the score. Snapping seems a little risky.

I love Dremel tools.

I was very concerned how it would turn out. That is why I placed it on the heat sink, as it is very flat and had a sharp machined edge at exactly the right place to match the score. My board snapped completely cleanly before I had depressed the unsupported end by a finger width.

The reason I ask is because I just bought a broken module from a fellow forum member.
I do not have a controller to use with the module.
I am going to try and separate the module into smaller units and build some Klondike controllers to interface the modules to USB.

I saw your ad and that what gave me the idea of trying to fix my bad sub-module. I'm not going to try and compete with you trying to buy bad avay mods...but if you run across any and want to sell one of the working mods, please let me know. If I find any, I will do the same.

smoothrunnings

hero member

Activity: 630

Merit: 501

Quote from: h@shKraker on January 05, 2014, 09:18:44 PM

smoothrunnings,

Yep ... Tried everything you mentioned and nothing works. I believe I "bricked" the TL-WR703N module. The reason I think this is that is I observed the TL-WR703N board during power up the blue LED no longer comes on signifying an attempt at Ethernet physical layer connection (i.e OSI layer 1 attempt). This previously was not the case as the blue LED ALWAYS came on and provided expected blink sequences during start-up and operation. Oh THE HUMANITY!!!! Do you (or anyone else for that matter) have any more ideas I might try?

H@shKraker

Have a look at this tread it may offer you answer.

https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/official-avalon-technical-support-thread-156323

Topic: Avalon ASIC users thread - page 32. (Read 438575 times)