Topic: Blue Fury Support Thread. - page 11. (Read 89623 times)

Absolutely.  I never could get cgminer to work quite right, so I went back to bfgminer.

I had with bfg for Windows and bfg in Minepeon no Problem!

Try BFG

Failed to initialize (incorrect device?)

Plugged in my 2 new Blue Fury's last night and they were hashing normally.  Went to bed and woke up to 2 ZOMBIE's.  Restarted cgminer 3.8.2 and I get the failed to initialize error.

Tried pressing the reset button and re socketing them in the hub.  Can't get past this error.

I haven't read every page of this thread, but I will if necessary, will I find the answer here?  Is this a common problem?

Thanks,
 

Anyone got extra replacement resistors on hand?

What do you guys think would be a safe amount of overclocking for the BFs? Is over 3GH safe if I have enough cooling?

The OP of this thread has instructions how to reflash the device https://bitcointalksearch.org/topic/blue-fury-support-thread-319419.  This maybe what you are looking for.  (It's the target binary file for the micro-controller running the Red Fury (which is supposed to be identical to the Blue Fury, except for pcb/heat sink color scheme)).

Cheers

Hello,

I just received my RedFury in the post today, I watched the youtube video and this worked first time.  Does anyone have any instructions on how to reprogram the rom and compile the rom source so I can have a play with it.
I am using windows, which might be a problem.  However if I need to switch to linux I have a spare laptop I can use.

thanks


Andrew

Try this binary for windows instead then please:
http://ck.kolivas.org/apps/cgminer/temp/cgminer-fff.exe

Has anybody run into a limitation on the number of Blue/Red Fury's that can be run on one PC Client?

I've run into a 32 device limit on Ubuntu 13.10 and BFGMiner 3.5.3.  I get a error message on boot up that says something like "no more free ACM devices).

On Windows 8, I can't get BFGMiner 3.6 to recognize more than 48 sticks.  Windows shows more than 48 COM devices, but BFGMiner will not find them with auto probe.

I have a bunch of 49 port hubs but I'm running out of PCs!

Hi ckolivas

I get this problem on a windows x64 machine. Devices are a mixture blue/red fury and will randomly Zombie. I have tried everyhting to rule out flaky USB (Zadig, diffrent hub, unplugging anything usb except keyboard/mouse etc) and i am currently running 4 on there own Orico hub. They will zombie out and not come back but still show as being present in device manager/ devices. If i power cycle the hub (it has a nice switch at the front) they come back as normal.

Hope this info helps and thanks for your hard work!

tk1337,
Thanks for this update.  I share the appreciation of the Big Picture team and others behind the BitFury based USB miners, hoping that they will improve in future production runs.  It is understandable that with the time pressures and small production run such quality 'bugs' can occur. If the copper tracks had incorrect dimensions on some boards causing partial shorts, that could also be production quality issue that needs to be addressed for the future runs.  It is great that you managed to revive the non-performing sticks and uncovered these additional issues in the process.

Cheers

I really doubt that, as cautious as I was being, with low air-speed and semi-low heat (enough to get the solder going) on with rework station. No soldering irons were used to get these off, everything was done pretty precision, also, not to mention the one from earlier today, you could see the under the resistor enough to already see where the pad was extended to almost the other pad before anything was done to it.

I don't see any problem, apart from some missing lacquer, which probably came off when you were removing the resistors.

Some of the mask layer was missing in some areas, other areas had full run-on when it shouldn't have (example R15 pad1 actually connecting to pad2), some went as far as connecting R15 to R16 on two or more pads. My guess is underneath the resistor (since there was such an extremely close gap (1-2mm?)) that it could have caused a connection underneath the resistor (possibly bypassing it ). I'm no PCB expert, I usually stick to coding, however I have been replacing/fixed/soldering circuit board components (as a hobby) for a good 20 some years. Also to note, I don't have a completely 'dead' fury, so I'm not going to attempt this yet (I might, who knows) but inspecting most of the board under a magnifying glass pretty thoroughly, I found for the most part, it seemed like this was only an issue around R15 and R16.

What I will say is earlier in my posts I couldn't get a reading on R15 with a multimeter, thought it might be the multimeter (as it was one I borrowed), later bought a new one... still no reading this bugged me, as I was getting a reading on other resistors in the area on the board. I was of course trying to read the fury sticks I had issues with... now here's the more interesting thing... now that they seem fixed with the 9.53k ohms resistor and careful placement, I get a reading. So, that raises a question of, was it somehow bypassing that resistor with the pad underneath being extended/spilled over into the other pad(s), since it would make a direct connection pad to pad first or maybe sometimes? I'm not sure, I'm speculating right now.

And I the 3 I did tonight I put 10k ohms on and they run 'okay' but it really seems that 9.53k ohms is a sweet spot, so I'm going to put an order in for more of those, maybe a few 9.1k/9.2k.

Oh and btw, I always have cooling on all my components. (Even if they are stated to not require it...) and I will say I don't have any of the Blue Furies with the black heatsink (anyone wanna sell me one so I can test?), mine have the larger silver heatsink (which I'm debating on sanding down some and giving giving a little bit more space between the fins for better airflow when I anodize them blue), however the Red Furies with the red heat-sinks which have a slimmer heat-sink profile, while it's a longer heatsink, it doesn't do the job as efficiently as the Blue Furies I currently have, without air on it, it heats up much hotter than the blues.)

I would also like I am in no means trying to disrespect Beastlmac, Big Picture Mining, or the Red Fury team. I am simply trying to help them out, as I hope for another production run, just with possible issues addressed (if these are indeed valid issues). I know they've had a lot of hard times trying to get things thus far, personally if the production factory which did the PCB's failed at some level and tried to rush things just to get the boards out due to all they delays they were causing, if I were in Beastlymac's shoes, I would definitely want to know about it so I can correct it for future production.

With all that being said;

If anyone has any Fury devices deemed, 'broken' and they don't want to deal with it, I'll be glad to buy them...
Likewise I would like to get my hands on a Blue Fury with the Black Heatsink, so looking for one of those to purchase as well...

I would really like to do some more testing and try a few other things I've noticed other than just replacing the R15 resistor.

tk1337,
Thanks for the photos (and the improved ones ), as well as the rest of the investigation.  Looks like the Quality Assurance department was asleep as the rush to build and ship the units took priority.  Hopefully Beastlymac and other members of the Blue/Red Fury organization will take this into account if/when there are additional batches built.
Just wondering if some of the inconsistencies that you found were in the 'solder mask' (the paint layer that covers the copper tracks to prevent solder adhesion during wave soldering or SMT placement) or were the tracks partially missing or shorting?

Cheers

Thanks for posting the pictures and doing all this testing and experimenting and more importantly sharing it with all of us.

I'll take fuzzy photos over no photos at all.

Thanks again.

Maybe you should get your eyes checked? Also, good noting this after I mentioned it was from a cell phone and crappy quality  it's like stating something that was already stated 

Anyhow, I had 3 more to do today, so I attempted to get some better pictures...

This is what R15 should look like:



This is one (of many) different ways R15 looks, especially in the ones that hash lower or have a higher error % than the fury sticks that have R15 solder points like the above picture:


Judging from my small sample of furys I own, if the rest of the batches are like this, then 40%-50% of the batches would have the issue. Like I said, it's not limited to Blue Fury as the two Red Fury's I own, one hashes 2.3GH/s spot on (determined it has regular soldering points), the other hashes lower (1.8GH/s) and has irregular soldering points.

However I'm not entirely sure this "problem" would cause the issues seen by most people, however I will state that after I was extra cautious with solder paste and resistor placement, I fixed the worst fury I had that sometimes would be seen hashing 900MH/s with 41% errors. I was awaiting a replacement, but since I haven't heard from my GroupBuy leader regarding replacement in over two weeks, I decided to try and fix it and succeeded (I might add, the pencil "mod" had no effect this unit either).

I know it's been posted some where in this thread but I just need a link to clear instructions to run Blue Fury chips with BE. Here's where I'm at:

Win7
Anker usb 9-port powered hub (3 BF running on BFGMiner 32). This hub was running 7 BE a week ago using BFGMiner 314.

I know I can do it with code but I'm not sure what that code is. Does anyone know what the OCL readings are from? or For? When running BFGMiner32, that is.
 

Any updated peon start-up commands ?
Have been using :


For the last few days.

This one can only run 2 BE's and a blue fury at the time being.

Any help ?