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Topic: GekkoScience 2Pac/Compac BM1384 Stickminer Official Support Thread - page 70. (Read 177410 times)

newbie
Activity: 14
Merit: 0
Question:
I have a geekscience  usb running cgminer on a windows 10 laptop using Slushpool.
Everything is working fine.
However the clock speed is 100(by default) and I want to increase this.
How is this done?

When I run cgminer the black window pops up and says url
then I type
stratum+tcp://stratum.slushpool.com:3333
then
username.worker
then
password

where would i type the clock speed? or is it done on the slushpool website?

Well, you found the correct thread.  That's a good start.

1) It's not geekscience
2) Go to page 1 of this thread and start reading, it's all there, most of it on page 1.  You will find examples of how to enter all the options on the command line and how to change the frequency.

If you still have a problem, post the complete command line you entered and a screen shot of what your problem is.

Thanks.
newbie
Activity: 8
Merit: 0
Question:
I have a geekscience  usb running cgminer on a windows 10 laptop using Slushpool.
Everything is working fine.
However the clock speed is 100(by default) and I want to increase this.
How is this done?

When I run cgminer the black window pops up and says url
then I type
stratum+tcp://stratum.slushpool.com:3333
then
username.worker
then
password

where would i type the clock speed? or is it done on the slushpool website?
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0
Quote
Got pictures? I'd love to see. You were able to find replacement heatsinks that could screw in easily with the existing screws?
I'll take some pictures tomorrow. If you can post a picture of your multimeter (and I have a cheapie in my desk drawer at work, because you don't leave home without a multimeter) I can tell you how to set it up.

Regarding the heatsink, I drilled and tapped and old Xeon server heatsink because I planned to do impolite things to my first 2pac. I'll get some pics of that, too. Any heatsink can be drilled and tapped to fit the 2pac, but if you're uncomfortable tapping threads you can simply drill through and use screws and nuts.
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
A 1TH USB stick would require someone to develop a chip with about an order of magnitude more efficiency than the best currently available. I'm trying to make a stick better than the 2Pac, but even 100GH isn't really feasible for a while.

I am finishing up a 100+GH small standalone miner, and the same form-factor will be used on a 600+GH as soon as I have time to develop it.
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
I found a pretty good answer to my question regarding which difficulty level to choose (512, 1024, 2048, etc) .
According to this, for one GekkoScience Pac2 I should use 256, but the lowest option on Multipool is 512.
From https://www.multipool.us/dashboard/help/

I'm in the same boat as you. If you set your worker to vardiff, then 256 will be the lowest difficulty for many coins. BTC I think is through slushpool so the minimum difficulty I think is 8192. Other coins have minimum difficulty of 2048. So, 256 will be used when possible but some coins just have a higher minimum difficulty.

I found that with one GekkoScience 2Pac, I couldn't submit any acceptable shares before the block was solved. I think if you have 2 or 3 GekkoScience 2Pac, you'll see better results.

You really need at least a Th/s (terahash/s) to get anywhere on these pools. I'm glad multipool.us is accepting Gh/s hardware but really it really seems like a waste of resources (electricity, bandwidth, server resources, etc). Not saying you shouldn't do it, because I certainly am hashing, but would GekkoScience to release a 1 Th/s USB stick! Wink
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
That's easily fixed, and I can walk you through it if you like. This picture shows you where to measure the ASIC voltage. https://ip.bitcointalk.org/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F3k4llxx.jpg&t=582&c=uImuQQqhyMCxIQ

Yes, I've seen this picture before. It wasn't where to place the prods. I didn't know how to set up my cheapie multimeter. Last time I tried, I got a big purple flash from the LED and 2Pac went into zombie mode.

I have attached an enormous heatsink to my 2pac, which lets me run at very high voltage without the chip getting too hot, but right now I'm experimenting with just how low a voltage I can run and still achieve stable operation.

Got pictures? I'd love to see. You were able to find replacement heatsinks that could screw in easily with the existing screws?
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
sunk818, if you look at the chart, it shows that you should only need 1.32V to run at 200mhz.  If you have them at 1.5V you are pulling around 1.82A.  Can you check the specs on the pluggable hub?  The one I saw mentioned a limit of 1.5A/port. 

Is this what you have?

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-hub7bc/
"USB over-current protection supporting up to 900mA per port (up to 1.5A for BC 1.2 devices)"

It's possible that the hub is shutting down the power at some point. Unless you are planning on running at 300mhz, i would drop the vcore way down.

I have the USB 2.0 version, but the specs should be the same otherwise except for max data transfer speed.

At 200 Mhz, I'm reading 4.86 V 1.45 A = 7.047 W. My KillAWatt is reading 9.2 W on the wall. I was thinking my settings would be okay because iPad takes 12W to charge and Plugable was handling it okay. I'll try the new setting and see how it goes! I love this community... thank you for your suggestion and help!
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
Hi
Anyone know how to setup cgminer with GekkoScience 2Pac BM1384 Stickminer for litecoin?
Thank you.

GekkoScience 2Pac is only for SHA256 coins. You want the Moonlander 2 USB ASIC for scrypt algorithm altcoins like LiteCoins. There's another thread on BitCoinTalk for Moonlander 2. Please go find it and read all the posts.
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0

I bought a USB safety meter. You plug this in first, then you put the ASIC in that thing. Typically, the ASIC runs around 4.8-5.0 V, and 1.8-2.0 AMPS. So, gets me the 9W-10W.


Ah, cool. I have a few of those on order because they're neat, but I'm comfortable with a multimeter and oscilloscope. For reference, your stick, or USB device is running at about 9-10 watts. The ASICs are the two BM1384 chips that lie under the heatsink. While your stick is being supplied with about 5 volts, there's a nifty voltage regulator on the stick that supplies a much lower voltage to the ASIC chips. The ASIC chips run from about 0.650 volts up to (in my experience) 0.8050 volts, and this supply voltage is determined by the setting of the variable resistor (or trimpot) near the USB connector.


I bought the USB safety meter so I wouldn't have to do it. I tried once with a multimeter, but didn't understand how to measure the voltage correctly.

That's easily fixed, and I can walk you through it if you like. This picture shows you where to measure the ASIC voltage.
https://ip.bitcointalk.org/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F3k4llxx.jpg&t=582&c=uImuQQqhyMCxIQ

You set you multimeter to voltage DC range. Then you apply one probe to one side a capacitor, and the other probe to the other side of the capacitor. Depending on the position of the trimpot, you will get a voltage reading between 0.650 volts and ~0.8 volts. This is the voltage being supplied to the ASIC chip. Because there are two ASIC chips, and each has a capacitor, you can measure the ASIC chip voltages independently.

sidehack has built a very tolerant device, and I have been pushing it to absurd limits beyond its design spec, and it has not died on me yet. At first you'll feel nervous putting multimeter probes on a delicate device, but if my particular brand of idiocy hasn't fried the 2pac, then I can reassure you that you don't need to be too worried about hurting it with your multimeter.

Each 2pac stick will have slightly different characteristics. With a 25 degree ambient temperature, my 2pac stick will run with an ASIC voltage of 0.732 volts at 325 MHz. When the ambient temp goes above 26°C I start to have issues.

The idea is to run each ASIC at the minimum voltage at which the stick doesn't fail (and report ZOMBIE) or generate hardware errors. The lower the voltage, the less heat you have to shed with the heatsink. However you can only go so low with the voltage before the stick will begin to experience hardware errors.

I have attached an enormous heatsink to my 2pac, which lets me run at very high voltage without the chip getting too hot, but right now I'm experimenting with just how low a voltage I can run and still achieve stable operation.


Quote

Yes. With one ASIC, the fan seems to keep it cool and running fine without intervention for 4+ days.


Good. From the current your stick is consuming and what sidehack has said, I think you can run your ASIC chips at a lower voltage. But before you try this you need to get comfortable with measuring each ASIC chip's supply voltage with your multimeter. Your 2pac stick is being supplied with about 5 volts and 2 amps, but each ASIC chip on the PCB is supplied with a lower voltage. In your position I'd make it my job to get comfortable with measuring and recording the individual ASIC voltage. From there you'll be able to twiddle the voltage down to reduce the power consumption, and reduce temperatures without sacrificing stability.

Quote
That's a good point about ambient temp changes. Maybe I need to get a digital thermometer that can record historically.

It wouldn't hurt, but you can just write down the ambient temp when you notice a failure.

Quote
I'm confused. Mine for voltage is 4-5 volts. I guess I'm confused why you said 0.73V?


I hope I've explained this above. If I have been clear enough, let me know and I'll take some pictures that show measuring the ASIC voltage. The 2Pac stick needs a 5 volt supply, but it has a really nice voltage regulator that supplies each ASIC chip with a lower voltage.

Quote
you got a point and shoot surface temp gun? how much are those? Maybe I should try positioning the hub, so the ASIC is "standing up" versus on its side.

I use stick-on NTC thermistors, but I hear good things about the banggood and HobbyKing IR point and shoot temp guns. Between 15 and 20 bucks ought to do it. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?erp_category=&q=thermometer

newbie
Activity: 12
Merit: 0
I found a pretty good answer to my question regarding which difficulty level to choose (512, 1024, 2048, etc) .

According to this, for one GekkoScience Pac2 I should use 256, but the lowest option on Multipool is 512.    Maybe I'll try a different pool.   I'm getting a lot of rejected shares and very few accepted shares right now.

From https://www.multipool.us/dashboard/help/

Q: What is share difficulty, and what should I set mine to?
Each hash calculated by your miner results in a random number. If this random number is below a certain threshold (known as the target), then it can be submitted to the pool and credited. Shares above the target are not submitted. Target and difficulty are inversely proportional to each other (the higher the difficulty, the lower the target). This is why you may sometimes see warnings in your miner about a share being "Above Target".

Over long time periods, share difficulty does not matter, and the default of 64 should work fine for anyone. If you have a very high speed miner, please increase your share difficulty to an appropriate setting. You can connect as many miners as you like using a single worker. We suggest the following difficulty setting per worker based on the worker's aggregate hashrate:


SHA-256 coins:
1MH-500GH: 256
500GH-1TH: 512
1TH+: 1024
5TH+: 4096
10TH+: 8192
20TH+: 16384
50TH+: 32768
newbie
Activity: 14
Merit: 0
sunk818, if you look at the chart, it shows that you should only need 1.32V to run at 200mhz.  If you have them at 1.5V you are pulling around 1.82A.  Can you check the specs on the pluggable hub?  The one I saw mentioned a limit of 1.5A/port. 

Is this what you have?

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-hub7bc/
"USB over-current protection supporting up to 900mA per port (up to 1.5A for BC 1.2 devices)"

It's possible that the hub is shutting down the power at some point. Unless you are planning on running at 300mhz, i would drop the vcore way down.
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
Can't be done. Learn a little about ASICs and algorithms and you'll quickly find out why.
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
How're you measuring the current consumption of each stick?

I bought a USB safety meter. You plug this in first, then you put the ASIC in that thing. Typically, the ASIC runs around 4.8-5.0 V, and 1.8-2.0 AMPS. So, gets me the 9W-10W.

Can you measure the voltage across the capacitor for each ASIC chip?

I bought the USB safety meter so I wouldn't have to do it. I tried once with a multimeter, but didn't understand how to measure the voltage correctly.

Finally, do you have a fan on the heatsinks?

Yes. With one ASIC, the fan seems to keep it cool and running fine without intervention for 4+ days.

but then zombied about 3 hours after the building's aircon shut down for the evening.

That's a good point about ambient temp changes. Maybe I need to get a digital thermometer that can record historically.

it's just run happily overnight @ 325 MHz with ASIC voltage of 0.73V.

I'm confused. Mine for voltage is 4-5 volts. I guess I'm confused why you said 0.73V?

both heatsink temp and ASIC temp on the back side of the PCB

you got a point and shoot surface temp gun? how much are those? Maybe I should try positioning the hub, so the ASIC is "standing up" versus on its side.
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
Are you keeping it cool? 9W per stick is pretty hot, and hotter than 200MHz should require.

I set it at 9.11 watts based on the chart in the first post.

I am running a fan on it, but maybe it is not providing enough air? I bought the hub, so the ASIC is plugged in sideways and the USB HUB is flat. So, the ASIC isn't sticking up in the air. Maybe I need to try a different position?
newbie
Activity: 12
Merit: 0
Any tips on choosing difficulty level?      It seems like in CGMiner, before I installed Minera in my Raspberry Pi3 the system was using 2048 as a difficulty.     So that's what I tried for a while, when Multipool didn't want me to use the Variable setting for difficulty.

If I'm getting a lot of rejected shares and not many accepted, does that mean to make the difficulty lower?     Because, depending on the currency/pool I seem to get varying levels of accepted/rejected.     I didn't know if adjusting the difficulty would help.
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0
Lately, I'm running two on the USB HUB and I keep getting ZOMBIE on one of the sticks. It is not a specific stick, but one will usually ZOMBIE out while the other is working okay.

I currently have it running at 200 Mhz at 9.11 watts. It chugs along at 22 Gh/s and will just die. I tried giving more watts up to 10 W per stick, but that didn't help stability.


How're you measuring the current consumption of each stick?
Can you measure the voltage across the capacitor for each ASIC chip?
Finally, do you have a fan on the heatsinks?

In the time I've been playing with a 2Pac, the only zombie events I've had were when the cooling wasn't sufficient. Trying for minimum heatsink fan speed mine ran happily all day but then zombied about 3 hours after the building's aircon shut down for the evening. Running exactly the same setup with a higher fan speed and it's just run happily overnight @ 325 MHz with ASIC voltage of 0.73V. I feel it's worth monitoring both heatsink temp and ASIC temp on the back side of the PCB to get a feel for how effective your heat transfer is. Playing with tightness of the heatsink screws will let you find the optimum clamp force for heat transfer. Too  tight and the PCB flexes and transfer is less good.
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
Are you keeping it cool? 9W per stick is pretty hot, and hotter than 200MHz should require.
full member
Activity: 1176
Merit: 111
I also bought a Pluggable 7-port 60W USB HUB on Amazon for $30 USD. I don't have three GekkoScience 2Pac yet, but that's the intent soon.

Lately, I'm running two on the USB HUB and I keep getting ZOMBIE on one of the sticks. It is not a specific stick, but one will usually ZOMBIE out while the other is working okay.

I currently have it running at 200 Mhz at 9.11 watts. It chugs along at 22 Gh/s and will just die. I tried giving more watts up to 10 W per stick, but that didn't help stability.

My next step is to try 150 Mhz and see if that is better. 150Mhz takes up about 8 watts per stick.

Any thoughts?

[2017-10-24 13:34:14.872] Pool 0 difficulty changed to 8192
[2017-10-24 13:34:45.011] Stratum from pool 0 requested work restart
[2017-10-24 13:36:20.286] Stratum from pool 0 detected new block at height 491540
[2017-10-24 13:37:12.733] Accepted 070945dd Diff 9.31K/8192 GSD 0
[2017-10-24 13:39:31.761] GSD 2: No valid hashes recently, attempting to reset
[2017-10-24 13:39:31.910] GSD 2 attempted reset got err:(0) LIBUSB_SUCCESS / LIBUSB_TRANSFER_COMPLETED
[2017-10-24 13:40:02.727] GSD 0: No valid hashes recently, attempting to reset
[2017-10-24 13:40:02.790] GSD 0 attempted reset got err:(0) LIBUSB_SUCCESS / LIBUSB_TRANSFER_COMPLETED
[2017-10-24 13:40:35.835] GSD 2: Device failed to respond to restart
[2017-10-24 13:40:35.880] GSD 2 failure, disabling!
[2017-10-24 13:41:06.575] GSD 0: Device failed to respond to restart
[2017-10-24 13:41:06.648] GSD 0 failure, disabling!
[2017-10-24 13:41:15.410] Stratum connection to pool 0 interrupted
[2017-10-24 13:41:15.687] Pool 0 successfully negotiated resume with the same session ID
[2017-10-24 13:41:15.688] Pool 0 difficulty changed to 8192
[2017-10-24 13:41:20.406] Stratum from pool 0 requested work restart
[2017-10-24 13:45:20.311] Stratum connection to pool 0 interrupted
newbie
Activity: 13
Merit: 0
Ho all, dumm question: is it possible to use the GekkoScience 2pac to mine altcoins ?

The 2Pac will mine sha256 coins. The ASIC (the chip that does the hashing work) is specifically built for performing sha256 hashes. It will not do other work. xhomerx10 posted a link to a page listing the types of coins the 2Pac can mine: https://www.coinwarz.com/miningprofitability/sha-256

Alright so any coin based on sha256 can be mined right ? (Like all those in your link)

I'm not an expert, but it appears so. Searching for "cgminer" and the name of any coin in that list I've searched for so far has returned results and examples, and if you can mine it with vh's build of cgminer then you can mine it with a Gekkoscience 2Pac, simply by changing the pool URL in your cgminer command line.

member
Activity: 111
Merit: 10
I'm frustrated, finding the proper USB 2.0 powered hub, that folks use.
Am I understanding correctly that you are looking for a working USB Hub?
I have a 30W 7 Port Hub from Aukey where I connected 2 2Pacs. But I bought it on amazon.de.
On amazon.com it woul be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-7-Port-Adapter-Charging-iPhone/dp/B014ZQ07NE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1508871680&sr=8-2&keywords=high+power+usb+hub
I think it doesn´t have to be USB 2.0. Mine is USB 3.0 as well and it works fine.
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