[Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive ASICMiner Tube Setup [HD] - page 9.

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Quote from: helipotte on September 07, 2014, 07:32:13 PM

That must be by design in software. Both devices have Ethernet connectivity. An application could be deployed that could update the firmware

over tcp or ftp, if the software is already setup to do this. The controller for the tubes has a "system" port, 7478 I believe. Maybe that is for

updating the firmware (I hope!).

Oh okay, yes there is a chance you can update the controllers - I thought you were referring to the board firmwares. At the price of the controllers though, if ANYONE can get a fix and can ghetto hack a fix onto a controller they might as well buy a box and ship them out globally as they're cheap enough and cheap person only needs one.

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That must be by design in software. Both devices have Ethernet connectivity. An application could be deployed that could update the firmware

over tcp or ftp, if the software is already setup to do this. The controller for the tubes has a "system" port, 7478 I believe. Maybe that is for

updating the firmware (I hope!).

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Quote from: Swimmer63 on September 07, 2014, 06:53:33 PM

Quote from: philipma1957 on September 05, 2014, 10:58:09 PM

Quote from: friedcat on September 05, 2014, 10:53:15 PM

The DC/DC chip on ethernet controller handles inputs from 5 to 12V. We tested cases of 5V and 12V and both work.

We also tested the temperature using thermal pads and not using. There are only negligible differences. This is why we marked them as optional. On the other hand, the current thermal pad solution may introduce bubbles which worsens the temperature in some local area. So we do no install them by default, but still ship them along in case there is any rare situation when the back of PCB is damaged and becomes conductive.

thanks for the info. how about a better gui on the controller? 2 auto switching pools of my choice not just the few that it allows . Although a 2 pool auto switching controller with ghash and mmpool would be better then what you sold us. I can not watch my gear 24/7/365 to switch pools if the pool crashes.

Oh thank you for compensation Canary gave it to me.

Once again...no response from FC on the GUI.

If you really think GHash.io is going to go down (along with 30% of the network), buy a $20 Pi and use BFGMiner as a passthrough proxy. You can set up as many redundant pools as you want for as many miners as you want if you set miner difficulty properly.

Quote from: helipotte on September 07, 2014, 07:02:35 PM

Sadly, to be expected. If you recall, the BE blades where NEVER updated. And everyone begged for stratum support.

They fundamentally weren't updatable without equipment no one has though, same here. See a USB port?

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Sadly, to be expected. If you recall, the BE blades where NEVER updated. And everyone begged for stratum support.

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Quote from: philipma1957 on September 05, 2014, 10:58:09 PM

Quote from: friedcat on September 05, 2014, 10:53:15 PM

The DC/DC chip on ethernet controller handles inputs from 5 to 12V. We tested cases of 5V and 12V and both work.

We also tested the temperature using thermal pads and not using. There are only negligible differences. This is why we marked them as optional. On the other hand, the current thermal pad solution may introduce bubbles which worsens the temperature in some local area. So we do no install them by default, but still ship them along in case there is any rare situation when the back of PCB is damaged and becomes conductive.

thanks for the info. how about a better gui on the controller? 2 auto switching pools of my choice not just the few that it allows . Although a 2 pool auto switching controller with ghash and mmpool would be better then what you sold us. I can not watch my gear 24/7/365 to switch pools if the pool crashes.

Oh thank you for compensation Canary gave it to me.

Once again...no response from FC on the GUI.

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Quote from: sjc1490 on September 05, 2014, 11:02:21 PM

Quote from: friedcat on September 05, 2014, 10:53:15 PM

The DC/DC chip on ethernet controller handles inputs from 5 to 12V. We tested cases of 5V and 12V and both work.

We also tested the temperature using thermal pads and not using. There are only negligible differences. This is why we marked them as optional. On the other hand, the current thermal pad solution may introduce bubbles which worsens the temperature in some local area. So we do no install them by default, but still ship them along in case there is any rare situation when the back of PCB is damaged and becomes conductive.

Thanks for the info, so if you don't use the thermal pads or any paste it won't void the boards warranty?

I did notice today when I pulled a bad board to send back to Canary the pad had developed 2 large bubbles in it and I had it good and flat when I installed it. Would you recommend not using it?

I installed my boards the same way you would install a cylinder head on an engine, center to end alternating sides. I figure this will minimize

bubbles.

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Quote from: klintay on September 06, 2014, 06:56:51 AM

Nice guide as always mate. Love the pictures Wink

Thanks

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Nice guide as always mate. Love the pictures Wink

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Quote from: friedcat on September 05, 2014, 10:53:15 PM

The DC/DC chip on ethernet controller handles inputs from 5 to 12V. We tested cases of 5V and 12V and both work.

We also tested the temperature using thermal pads and not using. There are only negligible differences. This is why we marked them as optional. On the other hand, the current thermal pad solution may introduce bubbles which worsens the temperature in some local area. So we do no install them by default, but still ship them along in case there is any rare situation when the back of PCB is damaged and becomes conductive.

Thanks for the info, so if you don't use the thermal pads or any paste it won't void the boards warranty?

I did notice today when I pulled a bad board to send back to Canary the pad had developed 2 large bubbles in it and I had it good and flat when I installed it. Would you recommend not using it?

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Quote from: friedcat on September 05, 2014, 10:53:15 PM

The DC/DC chip on ethernet controller handles inputs from 5 to 12V. We tested cases of 5V and 12V and both work.

We also tested the temperature using thermal pads and not using. There are only negligible differences. This is why we marked them as optional. On the other hand, the current thermal pad solution may introduce bubbles which worsens the temperature in some local area. So we do no install them by default, but still ship them along in case there is any rare situation when the back of PCB is damaged and becomes conductive.

thanks for the info. how about a better gui on the controller? 2 auto switching pools of my choice not just the few that it allows . Although a 2 pool auto switching controller with ghash and mmpool would be better then what you sold us. I can not watch my gear 24/7/365 to switch pools if the pool crashes.

Oh thank you for compensation Canary gave it to me.

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The DC/DC chip on ethernet controller handles inputs from 5 to 12V. We tested cases of 5V and 12V and both work.

We also tested the temperature using thermal pads and not using. There are only negligible differences. This is why we marked them as optional. On the other hand, the current thermal pad solution may introduce bubbles which worsens the temperature in some local area. So we do no install them by default, but still ship them along in case there is any rare situation when the back of PCB is damaged and becomes conductive.

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Quote from: dogie on September 05, 2014, 10:36:43 PM

Quote from: stompysteve on September 05, 2014, 08:57:17 PM

Quote from: old nice guy on September 05, 2014, 08:45:13 PM

Really very good thankyou for this info we just recieved 5 units of these miners and waitng on rest of our order, i do want to comment the folowing,
1: packaging is not the best we recieved one unit with suport base bent and one of the R44 BUSTED.( i guess that board will not hash)
2: WE PAID FOR ASSEMBLED UNITS AND THEY SENT THERMAL PADS NOT INSTALLED.(to me that means no quality control !, i hope my units run well will advise)
As far as the erruptor is concerned i would like to verify , the ones i recieved say 5 volts input,( not 12v) please advise, and thankyou again for the most thorough guide in setup.

wait so do you need to unscrew all the boards or did you somehow get extra pads?

They are absolutely 12V and will not work at 12V. I have no idea who was responsible for labelling the cases as 5V.

Is that a misprint do you mean will not work at 5volt?

Here is the deal 1 device just one device the little silver controller device that I want fc to program better
yeah that one absolutely positively works at 5volts.

The 4 boards need pcie at 12 volts.

Here are my 2 running right now daisychained on 1 controller. I will take a photo.

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Quote from: stompysteve on September 05, 2014, 08:57:17 PM

Quote from: old nice guy on September 05, 2014, 08:45:13 PM

Really very good thankyou for this info we just recieved 5 units of these miners and waitng on rest of our order, i do want to comment the folowing,
1: packaging is not the best we recieved one unit with suport base bent and one of the R44 BUSTED.( i guess that board will not hash)
2: WE PAID FOR ASSEMBLED UNITS AND THEY SENT THERMAL PADS NOT INSTALLED.(to me that means no quality control !, i hope my units run well will advise)
As far as the erruptor is concerned i would like to verify , the ones i recieved say 5 volts input,( not 12v) please advise, and thankyou again for the most thorough guide in setup.

wait so do you need to unscrew all the boards or did you somehow get extra pads?

They are absolutely 12V and will not work at 5V. I have no idea who was responsible for labelling the cases as 5V.

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Quote from: stompysteve on September 05, 2014, 08:57:17 PM

Quote from: old nice guy on September 05, 2014, 08:45:13 PM

Really very good thankyou for this info we just recieved 5 units of these miners and waitng on rest of our order, i do want to comment the folowing,
1: packaging is not the best we recieved one unit with suport base bent and one of the R44 BUSTED.( i guess that board will not hash)
2: WE PAID FOR ASSEMBLED UNITS AND THEY SENT THERMAL PADS NOT INSTALLED.(to me that means no quality control !, i hope my units run well will advise)
As far as the erruptor is concerned i would like to verify , the ones i recieved say 5 volts input,( not 12v) please advise, and thankyou again for the most thorough guide in setup.

wait so do you need to unscrew all the boards or did you somehow get extra pads?

Do not run without thermal pads!!!!

I am running two and I used the adapter that runs off your PSU, https://buyahash.com/shop/molex-4-pin-gridseed-power-plug-2-1mm-dc-barrel-plug/

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Quote from: dogie on September 05, 2014, 09:30:47 PM

Quote from: stompysteve on September 05, 2014, 08:35:34 PM

Quote from: Beastlymac on September 04, 2014, 01:07:44 PM

Great guide Dogie the pictures are amazing as always. Will you provide information on over clocking I see you have said it will achieve 920gh/s over clocked how stable is that?

Quote from: Harrowed on September 05, 2014, 08:05:55 PM

Sometimes a good reboot is all that's needed.. Oh and a nice drop in ambient temperature.

thats the highest GH ive seen so far and one board is having problems lol

The stats are garbage, he was only running for 7 minutes but on 6000 difficulty. Thats the equivalent of 40 seconds on 500 difficulty.

Lol thanks

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Quote from: stompysteve on September 05, 2014, 08:35:34 PM

Quote from: Beastlymac on September 04, 2014, 01:07:44 PM

Great guide Dogie the pictures are amazing as always. Will you provide information on over clocking I see you have said it will achieve 920gh/s over clocked how stable is that?

Quote from: Harrowed on September 05, 2014, 08:05:55 PM

Sometimes a good reboot is all that's needed.. Oh and a nice drop in ambient temperature.

thats the highest GH ive seen so far and one board is having problems lol

The stats are garbage, he was only running for 7 minutes but on 6000 difficulty. Thats the equivalent of 40 seconds on 500 difficulty.

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Quote from: old nice guy on September 05, 2014, 08:45:13 PM

Really very good thankyou for this info we just recieved 5 units of these miners and waitng on rest of our order, i do want to comment the folowing,
1: packaging is not the best we recieved one unit with suport base bent and one of the R44 BUSTED.( i guess that board will not hash)
2: WE PAID FOR ASSEMBLED UNITS AND THEY SENT THERMAL PADS NOT INSTALLED.(to me that means no quality control !, i hope my units run well will advise)
As far as the erruptor is concerned i would like to verify , the ones i recieved say 5 volts input,( not 12v) please advise, and thankyou again for the most thorough guide in setup.

wait so do you need to unscrew all the boards or did you somehow get extra pads?

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Curmudgeonly hardware guy

The controller has an internal switching DC regulator, and works with a range of DC inputs. I've got controllers running both 5V and 12V with no issues.

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Quote from: old nice guy on September 05, 2014, 08:45:13 PM

Really very good thankyou for this info we just recieved 5 units of these miners and waitng on rest of our order, i do want to comment the folowing,
1: packaging is not the best we recieved one unit with suport base bent and one of the R44 BUSTED.( i guess that board will not hash)
2: WE PAID FOR ASSEMBLED UNITS AND THEY SENT THERMAL PADS NOT INSTALLED.(to me that means no quality control !, i hope my units run well will advise)
As far as the erruptor is concerned i would like to verify , the ones i recieved say 5 volts input,( not 12v) please advise, and thankyou again for the most thorough guide in setup.

I don't know about running them without thermal pads... Usually in the PC space that's a big no-no. Be careful.

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Really very good thankyou for this info we just recieved 5 units of these miners and waitng on rest of our order, i do want to comment the folowing,
1: packaging is not the best we recieved one unit with suport base bent and one of the R44 BUSTED.( i guess that board will not hash)
2: WE PAID FOR ASSEMBLED UNITS AND THEY SENT THERMAL PADS NOT INSTALLED.(to me that means no quality control !, i hope my units run well will advise)
As far as the erruptor is concerned i would like to verify , the ones i recieved say 5 volts input,( not 12v) please advise, and thankyou again for the most thorough guide in setup.

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