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Topic: ANTMINER S7 is available at bitmaintech.com with 4.86TH/s, 0.25J/GH - page 214. (Read 528055 times)

hero member
Activity: 770
Merit: 523
I remember when paycoin popped up last year. Nicehash payout went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.

LOL .... Paycoin.

I mined that coin.... I also dumped for a profit just below its peak price while everyone else was waiting for that $20 price floor ....and before the stench of the scam make everyone nauseated
Was great on the nicehash side. I had just fired up a bunch of s3's at nicehash and a few hours later the payout went stupid high.
full member
Activity: 180
Merit: 100
I remember when paycoin popped up last year. Nicehash payout went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.

LOL .... Paycoin.

I mined that coin.... I also dumped for a profit just below its peak price while everyone else was waiting for that $20 price floor ....and before the stench of the scam make everyone nauseated

Heh, I remember the nicehash pricing and I was in on the bidding war, had over 2 PH on the paycoin pool all from nicehash for a time...spent a lot of btc to rent, but made it all back by dumping coins and then some.  I wish another coin like that will come along.
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250

Do not attempt if you are not familiar or comfortable working around high voltage. Touching the wrong area can result in shock, burns and even death!!! USE ESD PROTECTION when the device is not powered up, but NOT when the device is powered up.


All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.

Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.

Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )

NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!

If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.

Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE ARE SMT COMPONENTS IN VERY CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE POTENTIOMETER. IF THE BLASE SLIPS OFF THE POT, YOU COULD SHORT OUT AGAINST ONE OF THE COMPONENTS NEAR BY. Take the screwdriver and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.

Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.

It is then ready for use.

Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.

I should also note - DO NOT USE AN OVERCLOCKING SETTING ON THE MINER WHEN CALIBRATING. I noticed that when I used an S5 as a load and the miner was overclocked, the miner was far more sensitive to the voltage fluctuation of adjusting and would stop mining, giving you an UNLOADED DMM voltage reading.

Here's a handy picture from rchelination.com to go with the bbOOmm text.




You should be able to adjust from 11.7V to 12.7V

Rich

RING A DING DING! Rich nailed it.... that is exactly where I learned to do this, I just could not remember where it was that I seen the pics.

The Isolation tips are also of good interest, especially when you are using multiple power supplies per miner. I did the simple isolation, disconnecting the ground lug ( and stuck heat shrink insulation over the lug )
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250
I remember when paycoin popped up last year. Nicehash payout went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.

LOL .... Paycoin.

I mined that coin.... I also dumped for a profit just below its peak price while everyone else was waiting for that $20 price floor ....and before the stench of the scam made everyone nauseated
hero member
Activity: 770
Merit: 523
Well .... I think I used up my luck for the year ....

I found 4 blocks in 3 days ... with an S5...


Too bad I was not solo mining ....





Those are not bitcoin blocks, probable a new low diff coin.


Oh, damn. I didn't think of that.

Nicehash has merged mining?



Nicehash doesn't do merged mining.  Someone rented your hash and pointed it to another SHA-256 coin pool most likely.
I remember when paycoin popped up last year. Nicehash payout went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.

You wouldn't happen to be down in Florida and advertised on Craigslist with S5's and S7B1's for sale???

If so.... WHERES MY TRACKING NUMBER FOR THE S5 I PURCHASED and DID IT SHIP??  Huh Shocked Grin Tongue
Ha.
"just" was a month ago. I use ebay to sell. Craigslist to buy if I can get them in person.
hero member
Activity: 588
Merit: 500

Do not attempt if you are not familiar or comfortable working around high voltage. Touching the wrong area can result in shock, burns and even death!!! USE ESD PROTECTION when the device is not powered up, but NOT when the device is powered up.


All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.

Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.

Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )

NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!

If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.

Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE ARE SMT COMPONENTS IN VERY CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE POTENTIOMETER. IF THE BLASE SLIPS OFF THE POT, YOU COULD SHORT OUT AGAINST ONE OF THE COMPONENTS NEAR BY. Take the screwdriver and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.

Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.

It is then ready for use.

Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.

I should also note - DO NOT USE AN OVERCLOCKING SETTING ON THE MINER WHEN CALIBRATING. I noticed that when I used an S5 as a load and the miner was overclocked, the miner was far more sensitive to the voltage fluctuation of adjusting and would stop mining, giving you an UNLOADED DMM voltage reading.

Here's a handy picture from rchelination.com to go with the bbOOmm text.




You should be able to adjust from 11.7V to 12.7V

Rich
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250


 ...........................went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.

You wouldn't happen to be down in Florida and advertised on Craigslist with S5's and S7B1's for sale???

If so.... WHERES MY TRACKING NUMBER FOR THE S5 I PURCHASED and DID IT SHIP??  Huh Shocked Grin Tongue
hero member
Activity: 770
Merit: 523
Well .... I think I used up my luck for the year ....

I found 4 blocks in 3 days ... with an S5...


Too bad I was not solo mining ....





Those are not bitcoin blocks, probable a new low diff coin.


Oh, damn. I didn't think of that.

Nicehash has merged mining?



Nicehash doesn't do merged mining.  Someone rented your hash and pointed it to another SHA-256 coin pool most likely.
I remember when paycoin popped up last year. Nicehash payout went to the moon.
I just sold five s5's that were at 15 found blocks each on nicehash.
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250

Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?



Because you're obviously a super cool trekkie!


Now, Mr. Scot, can you describe in excruciating detail how you hacked your PSU to make it produce the flavor of power that S7's hunger for?


 

All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.

Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.

Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )

NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!

If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.

Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. Take that and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.

Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.

It is then ready for use.

Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.

You should add a disclaimer:  "If you don't know what you're doing, you can easily be seriously injured including death"

edited....
full member
Activity: 180
Merit: 100

Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?



Because you're obviously a super cool trekkie!


Now, Mr. Scot, can you describe in excruciating detail how you hacked your PSU to make it produce the flavor of power that S7's hunger for?


 

All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.

Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.

Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )

NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!

If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.

Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. Take that and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.

Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.

It is then ready for use.

Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.

You should add a disclaimer:  "If you don't know what you're doing, you can easily be seriously injured including death"
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250

Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?



Because you're obviously a super cool trekkie!


Now, Mr. Scot, can you describe in excruciating detail how you hacked your PSU to make it produce the flavor of power that S7's hunger for?


 


Do not attempt if you are not familiar or comfortable working around high voltage. Touching the wrong area can result in shock, burns and even death!!! USE ESD PROTECTION when the device is not powered up, but NOT when the device is powered up.


All power supplies are built differently, some have "fixed" voltage regulation, some have a slightly variable voltage regulation. The DPS-1200FB is one that is slightly variable.

Unplug the power supply and clip into your ESD protection.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on.
Tilt back the cover, wiggle and pull down to remove, you will see the tabs are T shaped and hook into the slot.
When the cover is off, fold back the fishpaper insulation.
The now exposed side board will show 3 very small potentiometers (silver in color near the top edge of the board)
The voltage regulation potentiometer is the far right one, that is the one you need to tweak, but first you need to power it up under load.

Once you see where and what you need to do, unclip from your ESD protection and plug in the power supply ( in my case I used 240VAC )

NOTE --- The power supply is HOT now ... DO NOT START TOUCHING CIRCUIT BOARDS WITH YOUR FINGERS OR TOOLS... HIGH VOLTAGE IS PRESENT!!!

If you do not have a resistive load that can handle continuous duty, use a miner as the load. I'd recommend at minimum, a 50% load of the power supplies maximum rated output.

Once your load has stabilized ( miner up and hashing ),take your DMM test probes and stick them into the back side (wire side) of one of the molex connectors, One row of 3 pins is positive, one row of 3 pins is negative. Now take a micro screwdriver - I prefer a non-conductive / non-inductive screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a cheap ass dollar store flat blade eye glasses screw driver will work. BE VERY CAREFUL, THERE ARE SMT COMPONENTS IN VERY CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE POTENTIOMETER. IF THE BLASE SLIPS OFF THE POT, YOU COULD SHORT OUT AGAINST ONE OF THE COMPONENTS NEAR BY. Take the screwdriver and rotate the far right potentiometer very slowly while watching your DMM. Adjust till it reads 12.25V. Stop, remove the screwdriver, and let it sit for a minute while watching the DMM voltage reading. If its looking good, as in where you want the voltage to be, unplug the power supply from the wall outlet, clip back into your ESD protection and re-assemble. BE SURE TO GET THE FISHPAPER ~~UNDER~~ THE CENTER SCREW TAB AND THAT IT REMAINS THERE WHILE YOU CLOSE THE LID.

Once it is fully assembled, power it up again, test the output under load with the load miner to ensure it is functioning properly.

It is then ready for use.

Make a label, a sticker, or write on the cover the voltage at what % load you calibrated at.

I should also note - DO NOT USE AN OVERCLOCKING SETTING ON THE MINER WHEN CALIBRATING. I noticed that when I used an S5 as a load and the miner was overclocked, the miner was far more sensitive to the voltage fluctuation of adjusting and would stop mining, giving you an UNLOADED DMM voltage reading.
sr. member
Activity: 359
Merit: 251

Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?



Because you're obviously a super cool trekkie!


Now, Mr. Scot, can you describe in excruciating detail how you hacked your PSU to make it produce the flavor of power that S7's hunger for?


 
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250

Nicehash doesn't do merged mining.  Someone rented your hash and pointed it to another SHA-256 coin pool most likely.

Sounds logical.

Why did I suddenly think of Mr. Spock?
legendary
Activity: 1302
Merit: 1318
Technical Analyst/Trader
I cracked open my power supplies and tweaked them to be putting out 12.25V +/- 0.005V at a 50% load. It made a WORLD of difference with the S7's. My power supplies were ranging from 11.6V to 11.8V under load, I was getting some hardware errors but it wasn't so bad. I was trying to see if the voltage was the reason why the fifo buffers keep tossing the error that they are empty. It didn't fix that issue, but the HW errors went to 0.0000x ( beyond the readings ability )

For information, I'm using Delta DPS-1200FB 1200W power supplies, 2 hashboards per power supply, and used an S5 pulling right at 600W as the load when calibrating all the power supplies.

That's precisely the reason I believe they came out with batch 6 having 135 chips.  I believe they were receiving too many tickets for high HWE's and sub-par hash rates from people not having PSU's with 12.0+ Volts DC.  I could be wrong but it's highly possible.
legendary
Activity: 1302
Merit: 1318
Technical Analyst/Trader

Nicehash doesn't do merged mining.  Someone rented your hash and pointed it to another SHA-256 coin pool most likely.

Sounds logical.
full member
Activity: 180
Merit: 100
Well .... I think I used up my luck for the year ....

I found 4 blocks in 3 days ... with an S5...


Too bad I was not solo mining ....





Those are not bitcoin blocks, probable a new low diff coin.


Oh, damn. I didn't think of that.

Nicehash has merged mining?



Nicehash doesn't do merged mining.  Someone rented your hash and pointed it to another SHA-256 coin pool most likely.
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250
Oh, damn. I didn't think of that.


Nicehash has merged mining?

I know they mine several different coins.  I would not be surprised if there is merged mining there.

Heh ... ok, disregard my post then .... sigh.... I thought my streak of 40+ years of having no luck at all was broken.
sr. member
Activity: 277
Merit: 250
On another note, I've been reading S7 support threads lately and I'm a noticing a theme around heat related issues with the earlier batches. I wonder if they pushed the S7 family out the door a bit soon and B6 was nothing more than a drastic correction to avoid burnouts. (house fires?)

I think it's more to do with many using PSU's with less than 12.0 volts DC.  Hence, the new design that's able to run stable with low NWE's at 11.6 Volts DC.  Many may have created tickets because of PSU's lacking 12.0 Volts minimum.


Could be what you said though.  However, I hope possible fire is not the case.

I cracked open my power supplies and tweaked them to be putting out 12.25V +/- 0.005V at a 50% load. It made a WORLD of difference with the S7's. My power supplies were ranging from 11.6V to 11.8V under load, I was getting some hardware errors but it wasn't so bad. I was trying to see if the voltage was the reason why the fifo buffers keep tossing the error that they are empty. It didn't fix that issue, but the HW errors went to 0.0000x ( beyond the readings ability )

For information, I'm using Delta DPS-1200FB 1200W power supplies, 2 hashboards per power supply, and used an S5 pulling right at 600W as the load when calibrating all the power supplies.
legendary
Activity: 1302
Merit: 1318
Technical Analyst/Trader
Oh, damn. I didn't think of that.


Nicehash has merged mining?

I know they mine several different coins.  I would not be surprised if there is merged mining there.
hero member
Activity: 578
Merit: 508
One other concern I have about the S7 are the heat sinks.

Earlier Bitmain models used a mechanically fastened heat sinks. All the PC motherboards I have ever seen do the same thing. In the mechanical setup, thermally conductive paste transfers the heat from the chip to the finned Al radiator.

The S7 appears to have individual heat sinks that are glued to chip. Hopefully BITMAIN is not trying to cheap out here. The thermal grease just has to be an excellent heat conductor, but a thermal glue has to be an excellent conductor AND good adhesive at temperature AND withstand temperature cycling.

3M has a special heat conductive tape family: http://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/3m8810.PDF

From this data sheet:

Per UL-746C testing, the maximum temperature rating for the 8805, 8810 or 8815 is 100°C when tested on glass epoxy or an
anodized aluminum substrate. The products meet the UL-746C test requirement of maintaining at least 50% of their initially
tested Overlap Shear strength after heat aging for 1000 hours at 150°C. (See UL file #MH17478 for details):
Additional testing completed and passed per UL-746C test methods include:
– Effect of Humidity: 7 days @ 95% Relative Humidity (RH) @ 60°C.
– Effect of Environmental Cycling (3 cycles): 1 cycle = 24h immersed in 25°C water / 24h @ 100°C / 96h @ 35°C @
90% RH / 8 h @ -35°C.
Note: 3M™ Thermally Conductive Adhesive Transfer Tape 8820 has not been tested per UL-746C or UL-746A test
procedures.


If heat sinks are falling off S7's there could be several things, an inferior product or the chip or Al surfaces are not clean or at final test they are running the chips too hot and damaging the bond to the heat sink.
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