Topic: ANTMINER S7 is available at bitmaintech.com with 4.86TH/s, 0.25J/GH - page 257. (Read 527809 times)

d57heinz - this was one of the EXACT sources I used in determining my electrical needs.  If you look further you'll find the EXACT same thing being said in dozens of electrician forums on the internet.
  I'm not claiming to be an electrician as are some, but I think the confusion comes from the fact that the 2 poles are 180 degrees out of phase and thus the MAIN does not see 340A simultaneously, but 170A on leg 1 with one phase and 170A on leg2 during the different phase.  This is essentially the same as 240V - using 2 x 120V out of phase connections to achieve the 240V.

I can also concur that I'm utilizing 32000 watts sustained currently - majority on 120V - divided among the 2 poles/legs.  Fluctuations go up to 38000 watts during use of misc items like washer/microwave/gaming machine/hot water heater/air compressor etc..

Hi d57heinz,

I just noticed your edit and I also read the link you provided.  What that electrical told the guy answering the question is correct.  One statement in that thread could have been taken the wrong way by a novice.  "VA" (Volt Amps) is not the same thing as Amps.  Transformers are rated in VA not A.

The very last statement on that page is correct in relation to a Main Service Panel inside a home or business.  The VA statement one guy made is more applicable to transformers than the Main Breaker inside of a Main Service Panels.  Hence, the last statement someone made in that thread to avoid confusion to the novice.

Kind regards,

Click to enlarge

When you say, "... I ran up to 170 amps on both legs (before the upgrade) I was pushing it to 210 but I put a fan on the main breaker." it's kind of confusing.

I can see pushing a 200 Amp Main Breaker on a Main Service Panel to 210 amps.  Especially, with a fan blowing on it.  The more amps flowing in the Main Breaker, the hotter the main breaker will get.  Mine would get very hot just before tripping this summer when figuring out how many rigs I could have running while the AC was running along with the dryer or stove/oven.  When I would try to flip it back on to get things running again, I would have to wait 3 to 5 minutes for the Main Breaker to cool down enough to actually flip back on.  It would keep tripping until it was cooled down enough.

Also, when breakers are rated, it's within a certain percentage.  Some manufacturers state their breakers are as stated +/- 2%.  Some say +/- as much as 5%.  10 Amps is 5% of the 200 Amp Main breaker you had.  So, yes, I can see pushing it to 210 Amps.  Especially, with a fan blowing on it to keep it cooler to avoid tripping sooner from the heat.

As for the "170 amps on both legs," are you referring to the two 120 Volt legs in a single 200 amp Main Service Panel?  If so, are you implying you were running 170 amps on each 120 Volt leg?  If that is the case, you're implying a total of 340 amps was flowing through the 200 amp main service breaker.  That's impossible in my opinion if that is what you are implying.  I can see 170 amps total on both legs "combined."  However, you said after that you pushed the main breaker to 210 amps with a fan blowing on it.  The statements were conflicting unless I'm misunderstanding.

I'm fully aware most panels in homes have more than 20 slots for the example I provided with 10 x 20 amp 2 pole breakers.  Also, most homes have more than 10 slots for the example I provided with 10 x 20 amp single pole breakers.  I only gave those two examples to show we can max out our Main Service Panel with 200 amps worth of circuits by using all 120 Volt circuits or all 240 Volt circuits and that the advantage of 240 Volt circuits is more POWER (watts) even though both voltages totaled up to the same 200 amps.  240 Volt circuits will provide double the wattage verses 120 Volt circuits.

I challenge anyone to find in the National Electrical Code (NEC) where the main service panel is to be reduced to only 75% of it's manufacturer's rating.  No one will find it.  My professor in class challenged us to find it in the code as our assignment over the weekend and nobody found it come Monday evening when we were back in class.  We were given that assignment after one of the students insisted the Main Service Panel is to be reduced to 70 to 80 percent of its rating like circuits inside walls and/or conduit.  It was easy to find that limitation set on each individual circuit inside walls and/or conduit in the NEC but that reduced limitation to 75% of the rating for Main Service Panels was not found in the NEC by any student for main service panels.  Our professor told us before we left class for the weekend we would not find it and he was right.

That 75% limitation put on circuits inside walls and/or conduit is understandable as a precaution.  However, it's not required to reduce the limits of a main service panel to only 75% of it's rating.  Someone even tried to use the argument to reduce the main panel to 75% of it's rating for a Main Service Panel inside of a wall made of wood with sheet rock.  However, the reduction to 75% was made for the WIRE and RECEPTACLES inside the walls and not for the breakers in the Main Service Panel.  He said, "The only occasion in which an electrician would consider telling the owner to limit their main service panel to 75% of it's rating is if the service cable INSIDE OF A WALL was rated for the same amps as the Main Breaker in the Main Service Panel.  That's why it's best to install a service cable INSIDE A WALL between the service meter and the main service panel at a higher rating than the Main service panel to avoid potential fire hazard while enabling the owner the ability to use the full rating of their main service panel.

For example:  If the service wire INSIDE A WALL between the service meter and the main service panel is rated for only 200 amps and connected to a 200 amp main breaker, the customer would need to be informed to only use 75% of their main service panel rating of 200 amps.  If the service cable INSIDE A WALL between the service meter and the main breaker was rated for 300 amps and connected to a 200 amp main breaker, there would be no fear of the service cable INSIDE THE WALL going to the main breaker over heating and creating a fire INSIDE THE WALL.

My main service panel is mounted on center blocks inside the garage and not mounted to a sheet rock wall on 2 x 4's.  Also, my service cable between the service meter and the main breaker is rated for 300 amps and it's NOT INSIDE A WALL.  It is mounted with clips on the center blocks up high going to the Main Service Panel.  It would have been fine to use a service cable rated for only 200 amps since it's not inside a wall.  However, the electricians who built my house chose to be on the side of caution.

Mine had a sticker on one of the screws you need take off to access the boards. So I didn't open until BM said its ok.

If its like the S3, you can open it without them knowing. There are no tamper evident screws.

I got myself really good 1 time with power.

a 4 foot fluorescent light blub.  1 hand on each end  while putting the bulb into a hot fixture I ran the current right across my chest.  Felt my heart contract due to the power, hurt like fuck.  Ever since that day I became far more cautious about power circuits.

Just thought id chime in on this for a second.. I had an electrician install 400 amp service on my rent house.. We split the output into two 40 slot 200 amp service panels..  Those panels although not recommended i ran up to 170 amps on both legs(before the upgrade i was pushing it to 210 but i put a fan on the main breaker.  Just because i got away with it for over 5 months dont mean you will have same results.   75% is recommended max load on a circuit.. the main breaker was rated at 200 amps.  It barely broke a sweat.. Now what i think your mistaken on is your math.. Although its correct your missing that in a 20 slot box, yes it will hold 10 double pole or 20 single pole breakers not 10.. thus still giving you your 48000 watts total.. By the sounds of it your more versed in this area than i.. Please correct me if im wrong

Best Regards
d57heinz

edit found this with little search effort.. http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=109846

"Nope, the initial statement is correct. A 200 amp single phase 120/240 v service can provide 200 amps at 240 volts, or it can also provide 400 amps at 120 volts. I didn't mean to imply that it could provide both simultaneously.


If we look at this in terms of volt amps:

240v * 200a = 48000 VA
120v * 400a = 48000 VA

Either way the capacity is the same."

Best Regards
d57heinz

I'm a big DIY guy myself also.  I do basically all of my own auto maintenance/repairs and home improvements, build my own computers, etc. etc.  There are some things that, even though I know I am technically capable of, I still leave to a professional.  Generally it's anything that could kill me if I do it wrong.

It only takes one slip up working with a main breaker and BAM, your heart will get stopped instantly.  There's also the risk that something you wired up could cause a fire and that not only puts you and your belongs in danger, but your neighbors as well.

Hmm, just wondering: When you recieve the S7, you get a note that says you need to check if the heatsinks are attached before powering on the miner.
The problem is, you can't do this without opening the miner, and breaking warranty. Am I missing something? I did not check this, other than trying to look thru it with some light..

Do they want us to shake it? Listen for parts that are loose?

That's good, I am quite relieved. Do you send the boards to the address listed on the paper that came with S7. It's kind of long (20# Yumin Road Shajing Town Baoan Dist Shenzhen), just want to make sure if they ask me to send the boards, thanks.

Same question.

Yes. The shipped me a lot of times a "god replacement board" for my S5+ miners.

From last four shipped S5+ blades  one is with temp sensor faulti + 20 degrees Celsius  higher, than the other blades , and one blade worked less than 48 hours for me.

Sending this two blades  back to China again tomorrow.
But it gets better all the time. For my 27 x S5+  blades is one with faulti temp sensor and only one not working at all.

I am good at diy.

my home was built during the Vietnam era many homes built in New Jersey at that time used interior aluminum wire due to a war copper shortage.

I wired my entire home in copper.  I put in 32 new circuits but when it came time to put in a 200 amp 120/240 box with room for forty single pole or 20 double pole breakers I called in a pro.

The reason is simple I would not trust myself with 2 wires from the outside transformer that are hot and carry 48000 watts of power.

The licensed electrician went to my roof disconnected  the lives wires from the meter put the box in did all the inside work and then attached the two outside wires well worth the money I paid him.

I just talked to a electrician and he is ready to put in new 30amps dual pole panel 240V in my home. Yes I am changing the default layout.

$450.00 estimated cost.

Were you able to get replacement board under warranty?

Lacked a lot of details.  It's not quite that simple.  My home with a 200 amp service also has 8 gauge on a 50 amp circuit (The AC for summer time).  He said small, medium and large wire for 15 amp, 20 amp and 30 amp.  Why not say the gauge for the proper size breaker?  Doesn't mention anything about an inspector for home owners insurance purposes.  The list goes on and on.  Don't get me wrong, I like the video.  It's informative as far as "physical" installation.  However, it's not informative from a technical, safety and inspection standpoint.

Thanks for sharing.

Any messing around with electricity is something I would leave to the experts.  I know some people in here have electrical work in their background, but this is something that can kill or burn your house down, so unless you are an expert (with proper experience), get an electrician.

I important thing on that link on their website: Difficulty: Hard  Work should be performed by a licensed electrician

Check local ordinances but most places will require a licensed electrician and possibly permits.  Or you might be lucky and live in a place with not much ordinances. Upgrading to a 200 amp is not really a DIY thing.

How to Upgrade an Electrical Panel to 200-Amp Service
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20802535,00.html