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Topic: Block Erupter Tube Sales Information Thread [Round4, Price at <1btc per TH/s] - page 3. (Read 88173 times)

legendary
Activity: 1372
Merit: 1000
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.
Thermal/IR hand held heat sensor

Thank you I'll add one to my shopping list Smiley
Funny I just bough this one on Amazon after realizing there was such a thing.

Not recommending anything as I have no benchmark but the unit seems solid.

Thanks for that I didn't realise they were so inexpensive. I wonder where you point it to get readings?

It has a 12 to 1 ratio imagine that as a cone coming from the lens it gets bigger the further you go. There is a laser, that points to the center.

I hold the lens about 15mm away from the chip I'm getting about 65 decC. At the front and 75 at the back can't remember now.

There are cheaper models, an easy justification for my latest project.
legendary
Activity: 1414
Merit: 1077
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.
Thermal/IR hand held heat sensor

Thank you I'll add one to my shopping list Smiley
Funny I just bough this one on Amazon after realizing there was such a thing.

Not recommending anything as I have no benchmark but the unit seems solid.

Thanks for that I didn't realise they were so inexpensive. I wonder where you point it to get readings?
legendary
Activity: 1372
Merit: 1000
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.
Thermal/IR hand held heat sensor

Thank you I'll add one to my shopping list Smiley
Funny I just bough this one on Amazon after realizing there was such a thing.

Not recommending anything as I have no benchmark but the unit seems solid.
legendary
Activity: 1414
Merit: 1077
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.
Thermal/IR hand held heat sensor

Thank you I'll add one to my shopping list Smiley
legendary
Activity: 1414
Merit: 1077
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.

If some of chips are going off or there is performance drop unit is overheating.
if all is hashing stable probably thoose fans are enough.
you can measure temp by laser pointer also.

Thank you all chips working fine and no drop in performance after a few hours so fingers crossed its ok Smiley
donator
Activity: 2352
Merit: 1060
between a rock and a block!
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.
Thermal/IR hand held heat sensor
hero member
Activity: 728
Merit: 500
cryptoshark
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.

If some of chips are going off or there is performance drop unit is overheating.
if all is hashing stable probably thoose fans are enough.
you can measure temp by laser pointer also.
legendary
Activity: 1414
Merit: 1077
Does anyone know if there's any way to check unit operating temp? I've replaced the stock fan on my tube with 2 x Corsair high performance fans because of the noise and it has reduced hugely, but they don't seem to be moving as much air through as the stock fan. I obviously don't want to damage anything by overheating, I'm running it @270 for now until I know its not overheating.
sr. member
Activity: 324
Merit: 260
1. The miner can not directly run with f2pool. If you want to mine on f2pool, you need a PC or a raspberry PI
with a mining proxy. The ethernet controller needs to be pointed to the proxy instead of the pool.

2. We now offer the shipping of fully assembled devices. If you need them to be shipped as a whole please specify
in your order. We still prefer separate shipping though, because it will reduce the potential shipping damage significantly.

3. The ethernet controller needs a 12V 1A DC input. You could either use a separate AC/DC for it, or wire one
directly from your PSU for the hashing boards.

4. Shipping to countries outside mainland China is free.

We have patched our servers, this miner should be able to connect to our server directly now. https://www.f2pool.com/
newbie
Activity: 33
Merit: 0
Check your cooling and power.  These tubes are VERY sensitive to this. in my opinion one fan is insufficient. Also try 260Mhz.  Can actually be faster that 270 if you have iffy

chips.

These tubes need a solid 225-250w of clean power per board to be trouble free.

You need 20% overhead per board or they will try to draw what isn't there and end up in a bad state. A 1200 watt power supply is barely enough but a good one (Thermaltake Gold 80+) works just dandy. Alternatively 2x of the Thermaltake 750 Bronze Smart paired up gives you more power per board at less cost and works great also.

Please see my other posts on how my 32 boards run over 100% @ 300 Mhz continuously despite ambient air temperature upwards of 40C.  Cool

newbie
Activity: 33
Merit: 0
Working the tube miner hard at 300MHz results are great, ambient at 16 and 1250w power and the powerdraw from the wall is 1000 W

Chip temps measured at 45C

How are you measuring temps?

I am measuring with a laser temperature meter, errormargin of +/- 0,05C.

Now do I dear go for 310 MHz? Can the power regulators, capacitors etc. take it?

Be careful these boards will burn up. Less then a month in and I have had 2 smoke caps (@ 270), hoping to here from CS on another RMA once the holiday is over. Contacted last week, nothing but crickets since...

I've run them in 85 to 101 F for months and not a single problem with any of my 32 boards @ 300 Mhz. They operate well over 100% but I have over 7000 CFM of air moving across them using an "open air room" design. Smiley

newbie
Activity: 33
Merit: 0
Looks like you have old firmware, type in:  192.168.1.223:8000/Flashmega to update it.  Current version is 1.41 or 1.53

Everything is good on my setup, I'm always scared to upgrade, what exactly has been improved going from 1.41 or 1.53.

Any efficiency or notable performance improvements?



I upgraded from 1.41 -> 1.53 and put the setting on smart (1)... A notbale loss off GH/S @300MHz. Did around 915GH/S before and after those changes went down to only 800GH/s @ 300MHz...

Can the firmware be rolled back and how?

Take it off smart mode and it will use the 1.41 firmware.

Smart mode dropped me down to about 92% from a constant ~105% @ 300 Mhz. Using the 1.41 firmware I can no longer use 300 Mhz or it will result in 100% hardware errors on at least one board however 290 Mhz now yields ~116% efficiency so less electricity and more GH/s. Cool

Stats:
Real performance:3111.11GHs, Expected performance:2672.64GHs, Utility:43461.37 Miner:116.41%

This is constant across all 32 of my boards running in a 50F-80F environment. Hope it helps.
legendary
Activity: 1372
Merit: 1000

Tonight I went through and checked all screws for the heat sinks on my two tubes.  I must of found 1/10 loose.  They also didn't come with thermal pads, but the heat sinks are nicely polished. Mine were assembled from the factory.  If you get the chance and can take the down time, I would definitely check, it might save some asics on your rigs.
Not a bad idea, I've noticed the boards deflecting around the screws so was concerned if too tight it may effects the solder on the chips.

Also I put some rubber feet on my units takes up vibration nicely so less concern with screw vibrating loose.
newbie
Activity: 17
Merit: 0
I had a hashboard go bad on me last weekend.  It kept overloading a power supply.  I pulled it off the heat sink and checked the back for burn holes around the asics.  I found one suspicious place.  I was hoping I could remove the core by cutting it out, like on the old avalons.  Instead I had to remove R44 on the burnt section.  These are in parallel so it didn't disrupt the rest of the boards current/voltage.  I lost two good asics in the process but also gained the use of the board again.  I think I'm around 194gh/s on that board.  

Tonight I went through and checked all screws for the heat sinks on my two tubes.  I must of found 1/10 loose.  They also didn't come with thermal pads, but the heat sinks are nicely polished. Mine were assembled from the factory.  If you get the chance and can take the down time, I would definitely check, it might save some asics on your rigs.
legendary
Activity: 1666
Merit: 1185
dogiecoin.com
newbie
Activity: 15
Merit: 0
Looks like you have old firmware, type in:  192.168.1.223:8000/Flashmega to update it.  Current version is 1.41 or 1.53

Everything is good on my setup, I'm always scared to upgrade, what exactly has been improved going from 1.41 or 1.53.

Any efficiency or notable performance improvements?



I upgraded from 1.41 -> 1.53 and put the setting on smart (1)... A notbale loss off GH/S @300MHz. Did around 915GH/S before and after those changes went down to only 800GH/s @ 300MHz...

Can the firmware be rolled back and how?
legendary
Activity: 1372
Merit: 1000
hero member
Activity: 650
Merit: 500
Pick and place? I need more coffee.
Looks like you have old firmware, type in:  192.168.1.223:8000/Flashmega to update it.  Current version is 1.41 or 1.53

Everything is good on my setup, I'm always scared to upgrade, what exactly has been improved going from 1.41 or 1.53.

Any efficiency or notable performance improvements?


1.53 is what will show if you select the "smart" option in settings.  By default, it is set to "normal" which is F/W 1.41.

Normal=0
smart=1

Smart seems to keep the error rate lower, from what I can tell.
legendary
Activity: 1372
Merit: 1000
Looks like you have old firmware, type in:  192.168.1.223:8000/Flashmega to update it.  Current version is 1.41 or 1.53

Everything is good on my setup, I'm always scared to upgrade, what exactly has been improved going from 1.41 or 1.53.

Any efficiency or notable performance improvements?
sr. member
Activity: 419
Merit: 250

I for one am NOT buying anymore chinese boards w/out FREE RMA process. FYI @ these BTC prices 5% is all that's left, so either STOP selling every GD BTC you get and HEY invest in the f'ing market you are profiting from or enjoy your noodles too.


Totally agree. I had 3/8 go bad. Canary was awesome enough to facilitate the exchange of 2 of them, only requiring domestic shipping on my part. The third I had to ship overseas because canary said he had no more inventory. Clearly he did or was getting some (see posts above) and just didn't want to deal with it. I don't really hold this against him since it is expensive and a pain in the ass to do all that shipping back and forth from overseas. Even with canary's generous help on the first two, I've spent well over $100 in shipping and insurance to do these exchanges and I'm still at 7/8 functionality since one board is still in the RMA process.

I get that smaller run runs of hardware probably can't be as picky about what is discarded in the QA process (if there is a QA process) but if you're going to cut corners on that end, you should offer free RMA, INCLUDING SHIPPING, on the other end.
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