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Topic: GekkoScience NewPac / Terminus R606 (BM1387) Official Support Thread - page 100. (Read 61318 times)

legendary
Activity: 1793
Merit: 1028
Personally i would just nip them up. They dont need to be too tight i imagine.
Or
Are there 3mm screws available with spring washer like cpu coolers used to have that didnt allow you to overtighten them?

THE CPU COOLER SIMPLY REPLACES THE ALUMINUM-FINNED BLOCK--

I have been thinking of your response for a while.  You may be able to find 3mm spring clips, but they would prevent flat contact of the CPU cooler with the ASIC chip.  The existing bolts would tighten the old (smaller) CPU cooler into contact with the ASIC chip.  The bolts would need to be no tighter than when installed with the finned heat block supplied with the assembled 2Pac or NewPac.

I am not currently considering purchasing more than 1 NewPac.  From the recent reports, a fan mount is enough to cool several sticks on a hub.  The setup for a single stick in my case should allow for a high degree of overclocking, as there is more aluminum mass and a larger surface area on the CPU cooler fins.  This will allow for greater heat dissipation.

I have two 2pac sticks, and one old CPU cooler on hand.  The sticks run at 100MHz for weeks with no errors and only passive cooling.  When I get around to it, one of them will receive the CPU cooler.  After that, I will experiment.  The sticks are in USB 3.0 ports on a GPU mining rig.  The rig mines with GPU, CPU, and the two 2pacs.  The 2pacs solo-mine on a local wallet, playing the digital lottery for 12.5 BTC at about 2 cents a day.

If the experiments are successful, I may use a hub.  I have a few left over from the Gridseed days.  And, some Gridseeds, too.       --scryptr
sr. member
Activity: 439
Merit: 297
www.amazon.com/shops/MinersSupply
Yea, that all i'm doing with my fan is setting them on top. Not a bright idea in general but then they're not OC'd as far others and still cool to the touch.

https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-24v-3000-q100-ip67-pwm/specification

This is the fan I have, not to noisy for the CFM it pushes. Used to have it on an underclocked s7

That's why the stand from 419mining is PERFECT!

And my 90mm fans are throttled down using a voltage/fan speed controller, because they would literally take off at full speed! One is 90mm x25mm, and the other is 90mm x 38mm.

Both are high performance fans made by Bgears, and are capable of producing hurricane force winds! Not the cheapest fans, but worth the extra money for certain imo!  Wink

They can keep x12 sticks (x6 sticks in two hubs) all running at 600Mhz, and all at/or under 100°F temps. I will post pics of me taking ASIC temps with my "temperature gun" in a few minutes..
jr. member
Activity: 35
Merit: 24
Hi Smiley

Got mine working to 500/550 Mhz now => 750 gh/s, those keys are really funny to exploit Smiley

rockmoney:

For your fan problem, here is a cheap solution, you just need to round pieces of metal with a hole, unscrew the hub lateral screws.

Place the pieces of metal, and put the screw, after it, just put a point of glue to the exterior of the metal pieces, and stuck the fans Smiley Smiley

Like mine :

https://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2019/06/4/1549567613-20190207-202136.jpg

https://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2019/06/4/1549567619-20190207-202154.jpg

https://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2019/06/4/1549567614-20190207-202213.jpg

Yeah my keys, give me DigiByte Smiley !
copper member
Activity: 190
Merit: 111
https://www.419mining.com
The one we selected to add to our offerings is the ARCTIC Pro with built in temperature sensor, it will be offered in 92mm and 120mm.

The 92mm puts out 43 CFM, which we found was enough to keep the Newpac's cool.

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/arctic-f9-pro-tc.html

or you can buy the generic one now from ARCTIC without the sensor.
https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/arctic-f9-pro.html

they offer other options without the protective cover, but the cost is negligible.
full member
Activity: 1022
Merit: 221
We are not retail.
It's full speed, I have the demo hub that didn't have fan connect yet. There's another version for the same fan available at 12v

https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm/specification
hero member
Activity: 2478
Merit: 621
24v? So runs at half speed?
full member
Activity: 1022
Merit: 221
We are not retail.
Yea, that all i'm doing with my fan is setting them on top. Not a bright idea in general but then they're not OC'd as far others and still cool to the touch.

https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-24v-3000-q100-ip67-pwm/specification

This is the fan I have, not to noisy for the CFM it pushes. Used to have it on an underclocked s7
sr. member
Activity: 439
Merit: 297
www.amazon.com/shops/MinersSupply
That stand does look VERY nice @419mining! In fact, I could definitely use x2 of them myself (one for each of my two hubs). Anyway, you really did a great job on that stand and fan setup for cooling!  Wink

Here's my little setup:



- click to enlarge -
copper member
Activity: 190
Merit: 111
https://www.419mining.com
our current "fan kit" available on our website runs a dual 70mm fan set. I will post the stands gt_addict used tonight, it will support a 120mm fan or a 92mm fan (if you use the resizer ring).  I also just finished modeling a retaining kit for a 40mm fans that directly connects to a single newpac/2pac stick, for those that are looking to run a single stick instead of a hub.
hero member
Activity: 2478
Merit: 621
That looks great, @419 what are the specs on the fan?

The fan itself I already had, it's a Noctua NF-B9 Redux 1600. Very quiet and sits perfectly over 5 sticks.
full member
Activity: 1022
Merit: 221
We are not retail.
That looks great, @419 what are the specs on the fan?
legendary
Activity: 3304
Merit: 1842
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
419's fan kit for those hubs is definitely some pretty slick work. He's done a lot to make my gear more accessible.
hero member
Activity: 2478
Merit: 621
So finally received my order from 419mining after getting held up in Chicago, because of the insane weather you guys are having over there. All set up and all five sticks running 450mhz at stock voltage and pulling 70w exactly from the wall through a 460w Platinum HP PSU with sidehack breakout board. Finally managed to reset my first two sticks to the “factory setting” after I was a twat and mucked around with them too soon.

Couple of pictures of my little desktop disco:-



Massive praise for your work sidehack, been mining since 2016 and your gear is by far the most professional. Also a shout out to 419mining for the excellent service and the addition of the 92mm fan adaptor. Nice touch on the clips to hold the adaptor in the 120mm holes  Wink
jr. member
Activity: 35
Merit: 24
Hey Smiley

I just received mine! Only the gekkoscience HUB connected to power (Note : Amazing HUB!!! The first i find able to overclock my keys...)

https://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2019/06/2/1549397806-20190205-211456.jpg

Good idea the FAN power plug! really Smiley Smiley

For the raspberry i'm using Minera :

https://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2019/06/2/1549398023-capture-d-ecran-2019-02-05-a-21-20-02.png

Here is my miner setup :

Code:
--suggest-diff 128 --gekko-newpac-freq 437

I made some test to 500 mhz, it work but need reboot every 3/4 hours! Smiley I'm very surprised about those keys! We can really play with them.

Just a suggestion to the creator :

For the next, please, exit the voltage plot, it's a pain in the ass to setup correctly... And next it is possible to add some LED Pins ? Because if i want
to make a installation into a box 3D printed etc, i would like to see the led Smiley

By the way, those new keys are really better than the older... Thanks Smiley
hero member
Activity: 2478
Merit: 621
Personally i would just nip them up. They dont need to be too tight i imagine.
Or
Are there 3mm screws available with spring washer like cpu coolers used to have that didnt allow you to overtighten them?
member
Activity: 88
Merit: 85
For metric drill holes that are 0.8 x 3 mm = 2.4 mm (in general for metric always 0.8 times the metric size for drilling holes when want to use taps)

When i am ready i will post pictures too.

Think i will manage with air cooling, due to the size of the cooling block, 50cm lenght x 25 cm width x 15 cm high (19,68 inch x 9,84 inch x 5,90 inch)
Still browsing the 2pac threads for the data i want to have.

btw i am now @ 600 MHz / 135.7 GH with stock voltage setting, very stable.
Switched back to 550 MHz, because of instability after few hours, probably have to adjust voltage to get stable @ 600 MHz for longer period.

Really can't find the data @ 2pac thread. Have read every page (107 pages), tried google, tried forum search.
Going to mesure myselve, but still wondering what torq to use for the 3 mm screws.
legendary
Activity: 1793
Merit: 1028
ok, thx i'll look there

3MM METRIC--

The heat block screws are standard 3mm metric.  I bought a set of taps in metric so that I could mount an obsolete AMD CPU fan.  Another fella is experimenting with a waterblock setup.  I have a couple 2pacs, and will try modding them first.  Simple plan:

        1) Remove standard heat block.
        2) Mark hole pattern on base of CPU cooler.
        3) Drill holes slightly smaller than 3mm.
        4) Tap threads.
        5) Mount CPU cooler with 3mm bolts.

When I get around to it, I will post a pic and results.       --scryptr
member
Activity: 88
Merit: 85
ok, thx i'll look there
legendary
Activity: 3304
Merit: 1842
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
I don't know the numbers offhand, but it's exactly the same as the 2Pacs and they're posted in that support thread at least once. Might even be a diagram.
member
Activity: 88
Merit: 85
running my newpac now @550 MHz making an average of 123.4 GH, very satisfied, running very stable, even better than @ 300 and 400 MHz.

@ this moment only got 1 newpac, going to order more.

Got an huge aluminium coolling block here (can put 28 newpacs on it if i want), want to put the newpac and the comin newpacs on it. So i am looking for the exact dimensions of the drill holes in the PCB. Will cool the block with two 230 mm fans, so it stays cool.
After this i will make my own USB cables to put al the sticks on the block and b able to run em.
Any1 got the dimensions?
Ofcourse i can mesure them myselve, but i think it is more precise if i got the dimensions used by design.
Also reaaly like to know the torq (nm) used by design to tighten the screws.

And yes am aware the warranty will expire due to this, np.
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