Topic: HashFast BabyJet users thread - page 3. (Read 69023 times)

True dat BUT at least the pin pitch is correct.  It was a PAIN finding the correct pin pitch on an assembled cable.  Sooooo ...... It's time to get jiggy with me exacto knife :-)

H@shKraker

Not only the normal Green to Black jumper but also these damm seasonics require a super secret jumper, the details of which are not even revealed on the sesonic website.

Seasonic must have countless returns on their power supplies that are in fact TOTALLY FINE because their customers only do the green-black jumpering for testing AS THEY ARE INSTRUCTED TO DO BY SEASONIC via the website.

I don't understand Seasonics thinking and waste of everyone's time...

If you use those cables you will have to modify the onboard socket that it plugs into. The ends of female connector on that cable are too bulky to fit into the pcb socket.

The plastic there is flimsy enuff to cut with a exacto or even cutting pliers...

Brethren and Ladies,

I present to you a cable that should be an exact fit for chaining -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-2mm-Pitch-2x8Pin-16Pin-16-Wire-IDC-Flat-Ribbon-Cable-/170699974016?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27be82e580 .  Enjoy.

H@shKraker

you should be able to take it out of the case you might need to buy cables from ebay or seasonic to use it on a pc for a power supply.

anyone know how run the babyjet psu (seasonic) outside the bj's case ? 
thanx in advance   

anyone know how many can be chained together 5,6? just curious?

All,

Thanks for all the replies.  I believe I now have enough info to at least make one if I have to.

H@shKRaker

This is the pinout and parts list for the ribbon cable.



You'd just need to make/purchase one thats the right length for your application.

On my Sierra the long one is 250mm and the short is 75mm

The cabling itself has AWM 2651 written on it.

Sadly I dont know, but if you find out please let me know, thanks

Does anyone happen to know where a brothah' can source those ChainUp/ChainDown cables?  Thanks in advance for your reply.

H@shKRaker

Not only How much but are those boards successfully hashing now?  Also, will you send chaining cables and/or will you identify the proper mouser part#s / source sourcing or making a custom chaining cable?

When you say boards I assume you mean boards and chip as in all I have to do is connect it with my current babyjet and it shoulld work?

How much?

They are definitely nice miners. So-o-o much better than my BFL Single SCs...

I have rev 1 boards for sale. Can ship immediately. I currently have 9 to sell. Make me an offer.

Figured I'd try here rather than a strict WTB thread but if anyone is interested in selling a BabyJet I'd be interested in buying. These seem to be pretty nice little miners when they work!

Sorry I am only aware of the Hashfast forum having it.

Hi together,

where can I found the official firmware for the BJ, or exists there anywhere an support page from hash fast?

thx for reply

My miner is only working with 10 Mh/s since a few days.

well thanks for the info. I have tried many times to use the rasp pi but always seem to fail. The pi reboots itself and such and I cant fix it.

Hello everyone.

If you happen to find yourself in the situation where your BabyJet is hashing along successfully and then all the sudden your RasPi develops LIBUSB errors (A windows controller may/will show a different error) I believe I've run across how / why at least one failure scenario causes that to happen.  Here's my hypothesis and how I applied a solution to said hypothesis last night ALONG with the mouser.com replacement part number ->

1)  BabyJet was hashing along fine and suddenly stopped for no apparent reason
2)  I thought there must have been an electric blink/brown  out/spike that dropped the RasPi so I headed to the room where said BabyJet / RasPi combination lives and to my surprise the RasPi was up BUT complaining about the BabyJet's USB connection.
3)  I logged into the RasPi via ssh and found that it had been up continually for 3 days and had not restarted itself .... Hrmmm .....  Let's power everything down, get a beer, power up the BJ, plug in the RasPi and get things hashing again.
4)  When the RasPi comes up is complains about numerous USB errors and when cgminer comes up it has no BJ with which to hash.  It's like the BJ isn't even there.

So I start to troubleshoot.  Clear there must be a reason for this.  I flip the BJ on its side and take off the side cover that has the Lexan window.  First things first, it said USB errors there for I unplugged the USB header on the top left of the hashing card and plugged it back in.  I made sure to inspect it for any discoloration and to inspect it's wiring for suppleness and to make sure they weren't fried as well.  I then unplugged the white locking connector just below the USB header connector and inspect it as well.  Just like the USB header connector the wiring was fine and there was no evidence of overheating in the connector pin area (i.e blackening of the white connector resin.  I then unplugged what one might consider the set of black "case to motherboard" connectors (taking note of the orientation of the printing on each small two pin connector and their order from right to left to right.  I found no evidence of overheating on these connectors either.  This baffled me so I decided to button everything up and try to bring it up.  As you might surmise I did not have success.  The difference is that when cgminer came up not only did it complain about the USB errors *BUT* it flashed one line referring to an "Unhealthy 12 volt power supply".  AhHA I thought, the problem is related to the PCI-e connectors OR the wiring or something related to the 12VDC circuit.  I again flipped the BJ over, removed it’s Lexan side and tried to spin it up again, this time I could see that the front fans tried to come on but immediately shut off and there was a faint clicking coming from the PSU.  This is indicative of a short to ground in the PSU or it’s wiring somewhere and then the PSU immediately “clicks off” as if an internal breaker is popping.  Soooooo …. I tried to unplug one of the PCI-e connectors from the board and what do you know, it was melted closed.  As well, the connection at the PSU was melted in place.  I did eventually get the PCI-e connectors off the board and when I did I could see CLEAR evidence that the PCI-e housing was melted, it’s pins were out of place and touching and the wiring for those two PCI-e connection to the PSU where quite baked (though not like Cheech and Chong).  One on board PCI-e connector was so borked that I had to replace it.  To get this done I ordered part number 538-50-36-1697 from mouser.com.  You’ll notice this particular housing is good to 105C.  If your connection gets to 105C you have much larger issues so this part should perform well.  To remove my melted/destroyed part I used a plain heat gun (be very careful if you do this).  Also, ***MAKE SURE YOU TAKE NOTE OF THE LOCKGIN TANG’S ORIENTATION BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE BORKED ONE***.  The reason for this is that locking tang determines polarity and if you get that wrong you’ll smoke your hasher.  One note on this is that if you forget a connector’s tang orientation the other PCI-e connector has the SAME orientation so look at that one and get this one you’re working on right.  Once you get the old one off, clean up the remnant solder in the holes, push your new housing through (with the locking tang properly oriented), solder it up and reinstall it.  When I brought the Hashing card back up there were no more complaints about the USB connection OR the 12VDC supplied power.  Hope this helps.

H@shKraker