(Review/Guide) WhatsMiner M10 33.0 Th/s, 2145W Bitcoin (SHA-256) ASIC miner - page 2.

philipma1957

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Quote from: edonkey on March 10, 2019, 12:55:21 PM

Long time no post. I've been quietly mining for the last several years on a pair of S9s and an L3+, powered by a pair of IBM 2880 PSUs.

Things are changing at our data center and we need some space. I figured I might as well upgrade at the same time. So I ordered an M10 and will be retiring the ancient miners.

I'm planning on running the M10 on 208 volts. I verified with the manufacturer that it's supposed to handle 200 - 240, so it should be fine.

Based on the original post, it looks like the PSU takes a C13 connector. I want to connect this to a C19 socket on our PDU. So I'm thinking about getting a 15 amp rated C13 to C20 cable.

That should be hefty enough right?

All of mine are 14 gauge c13 to c20 cables.

I have seven like this zero issues.

edonkey

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Long time no post. I've been quietly mining for the last several years on a pair of S9s and an L3+, powered by a pair of IBM 2880 PSUs.

Things are changing at our data center and we need some space. I figured I might as well upgrade at the same time. So I ordered an M10 and will be retiring the ancient miners.

I'm planning on running the M10 on 208 volts. I verified with the manufacturer that it's supposed to handle 200 - 240, so it should be fine.

Based on the original post, it looks like the PSU takes a C13 connector. I want to connect this to a C19 socket on our PDU. So I'm thinking about getting a 15 amp rated C13 to C20 cable.

That should be hefty enough right?

Steamtyme

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Well that was the quickest decision I've ever made pretty sure this is a recent price drop by Pangolin. Just ordered my 3rd M10 31TH. This was a no brainer as described below, considering teh risk for me is to high on the 15 series from Bitmain. This bad boy won't be making it into the house though, straight to the garage, I'll have to take my 841 offline.

Right now on Pangolin they are listed for 785 USD, I was able to use the 51$ coupon as well so that brought it down to 734 USD, plus shipping.

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

follow up it still works poorly I do suspect the board is cracked and the temp fix is just that temporary.

I have tracking for a replacement part.

hoping it fixes issue

Okay I received this part today

https://pangolinminer.com/product/miner-adapter-board-m10-m10s-d1/

along with these parts

https://pangolinminer.com/product/power-supply-unit-for-m10d1/
https://pangolinminer.com/product/miner-control-board-m10-m10s-d1/
https://pangolinminer.com/product/miner-fan-set-m10/

the 1 board m10 is running like shit up in clifton

it did do 10th for a bit but is now closer to 1.5th

Edit fixed it with the three slot bridge

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

yeah when the new pcb comes I will use a nylon washer.

it will lift the board at the screw in point.

edit i went back to normal power looks nice so far:

got board went to telegram and found some others with same problem.

So I linked this thread and I decided to further test my theory since these people had issue on slot sm2

I found some nylon washers placed them onto the metal mount holes.

attached them with some electrical tape.

so both sides of the pcb do not touch mount plate.

and gear now starts up fully in well under 3 minutes

so the base of the pcb board is fully isolated from the mount plate other then by the screw.

the pcb board looks to be designed to grounded to the mount plates only at the screw holes and no where else.

with the nylon washers in place the pcb board is about 1/16 or 1.5mm off the mount plates.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Evil beware: We have waffles!

Hmm, I might try that with the #4 M10-31 I got on Monday.
In full speed mode all boards fire up fine and the miner is doing 31.3TH. However, low-power mode is another story: SM2 (board 3) is fine but SM0 and SM1 do not like to startup at all and after a few reboots to get them started for warmup SM0 gets barely above 200MHz. Once the miner finishes testing and does its final startup reboot only board 3 remains alive and the other 2 do not restart. The 3 M10's I have at home run perfect in either normal or low-power modes.

Naturally this miner is the first one I wanted to use in my main farm to replace the few s9's I'm still running. Figured that the M10 doing 19-20TH @1,250w was going to be a perfect drop-in replacement for these old s9's (that are batch 5 & 11 so the BM LPM firmware does not work).

On the tape fix, careful! It is very easy for high spots on the board to push their way through it. A better choice would be a fiber washer like you get when you purchase MoBo's for building a PC. I know I've accumulated a gazillion of them over the years.

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

Quote from: TheYankeesWin! on February 27, 2019, 12:44:44 PM

Phil have you tested to determine the pcb board is at fault and not a combination of hash board and pcb board?

Quote from: Steamtyme on February 25, 2019, 10:35:20 AM

Yeah no news and it arriving is way better than no news and it staying in Limbo.

Looking forward to the video Phil. Did they think it was that part due to it being kinda a weak board then dropping off completely?

I decided to try to tease out an answer to this question by moving hashboards.

slot one would sometimes be bad
slot two would be bad almost all the time.
slot three works great.

I moved the board in slot 2 to slot 3 this board was the higher speed board if the slot2 has the problem the high speed board should work every time in slot 3

and the board in slot 2 should not work at all.

This is exactly what happens.
I am also pretty sure the putting a piece of insulation on the square below should prevent the pcb from ground out.

So have a piece of electrical tape on that square. While I wait for the new pcb board from pangolinminer.com

TheYankeesWin!

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Phil have you tested to determine the pcb board is at fault and not a combination of hash board and pcb board?

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

heat sink is good

last three shots

now that the board is not smashed tight to the plate we are good to go

this may mean I need a pcb bridge board since it could have a tiny crack in it.

edit talked on telegram will get a free pcb bridge with other parts ordered

minefarmbuy

full member

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We are not retail.

Well you did circle it but still visible even as focus is on the center of the picture. Looks like just under your screwdriver a heat sink is bent in the same pic? Maybe it's just the angle.

NotFuzzyWarm

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Evil beware: We have waffles!

And nice to see that they are using bus bars from PSU to the hash boards vs the clips that BM uses. Should be far more reliable Cheesy

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

Quote from: HagssFIN on February 25, 2019, 02:29:38 PM

Thanks for sharing that good info Phil, and glad to hear that your unit is hashing again!

the beauty of digital cameras take 40 to 50 photos

pick the ones you want.

Back in the day those 37 photos would have cost 20 dollars to develop plus 10 dollars for the film purchase.

Then a few hours on a scanner to upload to the primitive pre digital camera internet. Grin

Better yet minefarmbuy found the difference in screw depth visually.
I truly posted that not realizing it was easy to see it.

I only knew it was too tight due to me having to use the drill/impact DeWalt to unscrew it. Grin

HagssFIN

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Electrical engineer. Mining since 2014.

Thanks for sharing that good info Phil, and glad to hear that your unit is hashing again!

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

Quote from: minefarmbuy on February 25, 2019, 01:36:49 PM

You can see the mm or two difference there in torque. So everything is hash well again?

Yeah a nice photo of the problem. Got lucky with it. I took the photo before I removed the tight screw. Did not even see the difference when I took the shot.
Did feel the difference as I could not unscrew it til I used the dewalt impact driver.

and yes it works fine still a bit under 31 at 30.2 or 30.3

here it is below:

minefarmbuy

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We are not retail.

You can see the mm or two difference there in torque. So everything is hash well again?

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

To mods I double posted to make it more clear.

controller still attached to bridge and psu

detached controller from psu

view behind fan looking up to dashboard connection to the controller

this is the money shot
the bottom side of the over tightened screw on the bridge
my middle board just did not work and board to left on end was iffy .

I think the tight screw was grounding pcb board and dropping one or 2 hash boards off

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

@ yankees yes I think that is the issue.

It was hard to remove one of the screws that hold the bridge in place.
I needed a dewalt impact drill/driver with a small philips screw head to remove the screw. No way it needs to be that tight.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCD791D2-Li-Ion-Brushless-Compact/dp/B0183RLVSQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

no way does a pcb board need to be removed with the tool above.

Unless it was put in too tight.

looks good 32th

here are links photos of taking the unit apart.

fan power/control

https://i.imgur.com/9evPmWs.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uhVrafK.jpg

once you do that remove fan

https://i.imgur.com/dm1CYYX.jpg

then unscrew housing that holds controller 4 screws two on each side

https://i.imgur.com/N3VfUm5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/I8xVfp0.jpg

lift housing gentle as it has wires

https://i.imgur.com/fYKnW7e.jpg

the bridge has the overtightened screw marked
note cables one near the screw goes from controller to bridge to 3 hash board
one goes from controller to psu

TheYankeesWin!

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That makes sense it is why it would work sometimes and not others.

So if you need a new part it may just be the bridge not the hashboards.

philipma1957

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'The right to privacy matters'

@ yankees maybe

This screen shot shows 3 boards working

I took about 30 photos of the reseating of the board will post later if this stays working.

Note the screen shot mentions a communication error with all three boards.

I think when this was assembled at the factory the bridge was correctly mounted to the 2 boards but once done the two screws that keep it in place were over tightened. Thus causing an issue with the bridge board working correctly.

TheYankeesWin!

sr. member

Activity: 464

Merit: 301

Any luck with the reseating of the board?

Topic: (Review/Guide) WhatsMiner M10 33.0 Th/s, 2145W Bitcoin (SHA-256) ASIC miner - page 2. (Read 24312 times)