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Topic: Server Power Supply Interface Board - for standalone miners and GPU rigs - page 3. (Read 120730 times)

hero member
Activity: 840
Merit: 1000
As has been mentioned several times before, that part will not work on the 750. Power blade spacing is wrong.

Sorry, I didn't read the full thread.

but here is the good one with 5.08 spacing on power, then:
http://portal.fciconnect.com/Comergent/fci/drawing/51915-064.pdf

Mouser does have some in stock.
legendary
Activity: 3374
Merit: 1859
Curmudgeonly hardware guy
As has been mentioned several times before, that part will not work on the 750. Power blade spacing is wrong.
hero member
Activity: 840
Merit: 1000
I can tell by looking that it won't work on the 750W, at least not the ones I carry.
What's the part number for the Dell 750W PSU's connector if you care to share?

You can find it here:
http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/1/3/5/4/3/a4875719-98-pinout%202800%202850%20n%203.jpg

And you are lucky, the connectors are in stock for straight and right angle one:

https://octopart.com/51741-10002406cclf-fci-39791583

https://octopart.com/51761-10002406aalf-fci-39822419


Correct reference in my next message

hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard.

I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded.  Tot that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated.  94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along.

Thanks for clarifying and I hope you won't take it personal to learn that none of your assertions bear out.
1. There are NO components being sandwiched. The "plastic" simply holds the connector (to ease unplugging) and the PSU switch.
2. The "plastic" is not voltage rated but it is fire rated, and I can confirm to you that it is fire retardent with a high enough combustive temperature.

PS. Any pointers on the 750W PSU connector ...?

94V has nothing to do with voltage ratings.  It is a UL flammability standard.  What ever you want to call it it is in contact with pieces that are carrying high current and can get hot but if you've checked the specs on your material and you are satisfied then good.

Don't have the exact connector p/n off hand but I've used 51915-176LF and then hack it down to the correct size with a saw and glue it back together with some epoxy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94

I suppose there are different standards' names applied for different territories (which can be compliant with internationaal standards), but seeing it is a flammability standard, the "plastic" I use is sourced in the EU and complies with / achieves UK fire / flammabilty levels ... aka high combustive temps.

On the connector, I'll pass on the saw hacking bit and wait for the PSU .... introducing foreign material in the shape of epoxy resin to the composite connector may compromise its flammability capability .....  if they make the receptacle, they certainly make the connector!
sr. member
Activity: 479
Merit: 250
As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard.

I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded.  Tot that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated.  94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along.

Thanks for clarifying and I hope you won't take it personal to learn that none of your assertions bear out.
1. There are NO components being sandwiched. The "plastic" simply holds the connector (to ease unplugging) and the PSU switch.
2. The "plastic" is not voltage rated but it is fire rated, and I can confirm to you that it is fire retardent with a high enough combustive temperature.

PS. Any pointers on the 750W PSU connector ...?

94V has nothing to do with voltage ratings.  It is a UL flammability standard.  What ever you want to call it it is in contact with pieces that are carrying high current and can get hot but if you've checked the specs on your material and you are satisfied then good.

Don't have the exact connector p/n off hand but I've used 51915-176LF and then hack it down to the correct size with a saw and glue it back together with some epoxy.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UL_94
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard.

I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded.  Tot that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated.  94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along.

Thanks for clarifying and I hope you won't take it personal to learn that none of your assertions bear out.
1. There are NO components being sandwiched. The "plastic" simply holds the connector (to ease unplugging) and the PSU switch.
2. The "plastic" is not voltage rated but it is fire rated, and I can confirm to you that it is fire retardent with a high enough combustive temperature.

PS. Any pointers on the 750W PSU connector ...?
sr. member
Activity: 479
Merit: 250
As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard.

I mean using it in the manner you are sandwiching components that are going to get warm if they are over loaded.  Not that the particular plastic you are using is or isn't 94V-0 or better rated.  94V is a fire retardant spec for those following along.
legendary
Activity: 1050
Merit: 1000
I've only seen one maker of my.psu and it was way more.cumbersome than I'd like.
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
Not sure if that was in specific reference to the images I posted, but if it is, I can not think how you came to the conclusion as to the standards it meets / complies with. I did (after your post) look up the details on the perspex material I am using and I have no concerns whatsoever in that regard.
sr. member
Activity: 479
Merit: 250
I can tell by looking that it won't work on the 750W, at least not the ones I carry.
What's the part number for the Dell 750W PSU's connector if you care to share?

I'd like to build them for the dps 2000bb but at 2000watts, I feel a need to find a larger terminal block to effectively build them.

They make larger terminal blocks like 65 Amp and 125 Amp but no distributors stock them so there are 6-8 week lead times and minimum orders of 1000+ pieces.

This is all a fun creative exercise but I really don't get the point beyond that.  You are still buying the two most expensive parts of any adapter board; the mating connector and the terminal blocks.  Once you figure in your labor costs these things probably cost twice as much as just buying an adapter board from any of the several establish supplies. 

As an aside it's a bad idea to use plastic that doesn't meet 94V- standards like you are since if you have an over heating incident you are more likely to have a serious fire instead of just some melted plastic.
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
The issue being, properly soldering a 6 awg wire to a plastic plug...
Same way you were going to solder the 1mm terminal blocks .... only this time, since 6 (or 8 ) AWG wires are bigger, easier! Just pre-tin them, put them in place and away you go.
legendary
Activity: 1050
Merit: 1000
Factored in some loss yes.
was thinking of going with 6 awg just to make it easier and for fudge factor.

The issue being, properly soldering a 6 awg wire to a plastic plug...
legendary
Activity: 1050
Merit: 1000

Well, I was planning to mount the PSUs a meter or two from the miner's, so having less wirer would be best.
I was thinking of running 8AWG from the psu to beside the miner than breaking out with smaller terminal boards.  .....

And what is stopping you from doing that now? That you got the 32A terminal blocks does not mean you have to use them on the connector! I know it looks neat, but it is not the only practial way to achieve what you want.
Of-course, nearly everyone's setup is different, but if I were in your position, all I'd do was to solder the 8AWG wires onto the connectors and use the terminal blocks on the other end of the 8AWG wires to break out to the rigs ..... or am I over simplifying this one ? !

PS. I hope those 8AWG's are copper wires ..... and you've factored in the 1-2 meter resistance they introduce to the circuit, thus the output the other end.

Likely my only option, just not the best.option.
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500

Well, I was planning to mount the PSUs a meter or two from the miner's, so having less wirer would be best.
I was thinking of running 8AWG from the psu to beside the miner than breaking out with smaller terminal boards.  .....

And what is stopping you from doing that now? That you got the 32A terminal blocks does not mean you have to use them on the connector! I know it looks neat, but it is not the only practial way to achieve what you want.
Of-course, nearly everyone's setup is different, but if I were in your position, all I'd do was to solder the 8AWG wires onto the connectors and use the terminal blocks on the other end of the 8AWG wires to break out to the rigs ..... or am I over simplifying this one ? !

PS. I hope those 8AWG's are copper wires ..... and you've factored in the 1-2 meter resistance they introduce to the circuit, thus the output the other end.
legendary
Activity: 1050
Merit: 1000
Well by imagination your mean math..
I'm expecting to see 2000-2400 off my psu if I max it out
That works out to be 200 amps on the high end.

200/32 = 6.25 so let's say 6.

I only want to run to four lines.
for 50 amps max per line.
Even that with an est. 3% loss would have me using 6 AWG wire... Which is nuts.
That runs to a terminal than breaks out into dual PCI connectors.

If I'm unable to find a 50amp terminal for the back of the plug, I need to somehow split the wires into either more wire' at an uneven/unblanaced number or overload them little 32 ampers.

I'd rather not have 12 terminals on the back of the plug, 4 and 4 would be as ideal as they come.

Finding a 50 terminal I can solder to the back of the plug, is my next issue!

Short of finding your prefered 50A rated terminal block, I can not see another solution aside from side mounting the 32A terminal blocks onto your connector, which'd make each power connector capable of serving 64A (as opposed to the max out put of 50A). In my estimation, you'd then have a total of 16 terminals on each connector (or 12 if you prefer it that way). For bitcoin mining, I can not find any reason to make it more complicated than that, but of course, you may have other use cases I am not privy to.

I am assuming here that you'd like to do this on the basis of cost reduction, if not, then you have the breakout board option, and with that you do have options, literally!



Well, I was planning to mount the PSUs a meter or two from the miner's, so having less wirer would be best.
I was thinking of running 8AWG from the psu to beside the miner than breaking out with smaller terminal boards. For wire management.
I'd like to have 8 wire's come off the back of the pcb to make  it the most organized, but this is seeming to be a harder option. I may need to double my wires up like you stated Sad

This kicks my OCD into overdrive.
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
Well by imagination your mean math..
I'm expecting to see 2000-2400 off my psu if I max it out
That works out to be 200 amps on the high end.

200/32 = 6.25 so let's say 6.

I only want to run to four lines.
for 50 amps max per line.
Even that with an est. 3% loss would have me using 6 AWG wire... Which is nuts.
That runs to a terminal than breaks out into dual PCI connectors.

If I'm unable to find a 50amp terminal for the back of the plug, I need to somehow split the wires into either more wire' at an uneven/unblanaced number or overload them little 32 ampers.

I'd rather not have 12 terminals on the back of the plug, 4 and 4 would be as ideal as they come.

Finding a 50 terminal I can solder to the back of the plug, is my next issue!

Short of finding your prefered 50A rated terminal block, I can not see another solution aside from side mounting the 32A terminal blocks onto your connector, which'd make each power connector capable of serving 64A (as opposed to the max out put of 50A). In my estimation, you'd then have a total of 16 terminals on each connector (or 12 if you prefer it that way). For bitcoin mining, I can not find any reason to make it more complicated than that, but of course, you may have other use cases I am not privy to.

I am assuming here that you'd like to do this on the basis of cost reduction, if not, then you have the breakout board option, and with that you do have options, literally!

legendary
Activity: 1050
Merit: 1000
I can tell by looking that it won't work on the 750W, at least not the ones I carry.
What's the part number for the Dell 750W PSU's connector if you care to share?

I'd like to build them for the dps 2000bb but at 2000watts, I feel a need to find a larger terminal block to effectively build them.
If you think outside the box, you can actually put one together capable of handling 2000W + with just the 32A terminal blocks ... just use  some imagination ....

@sidehack - the actual model / description is Dell NY526 PowerEdge 2950 750W Redundant Power Supply

Well by imagination your mean math..
I'm expecting to see 2000-2400 off my psu if I max it out
That works out to be 200 amps on the high end.

200/32 = 6.25 so let's say 6.

I only want to run to four lines.
for 50 amps max per line.
Even that with an est. 3% loss would have me using 6 AWG wire... Which is nuts.
That runs to a terminal than breaks out into dual PCI connectors.

If I'm unable to find a 50amp terminal for the back of the plug, I need to somehow split the wires into either more wire' at an uneven/unblanaced number or overload them little 32 ampers.

I'd rather not have 12 terminals on the back of the plug, 4 and 4 would be as ideal as they come.

Finding a 50 terminal I can solder to the back of the plug, is my next issue!
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
I can tell by looking that it won't work on the 750W, at least not the ones I carry.
What's the part number for the Dell 750W PSU's connector if you care to share?

I'd like to build them for the dps 2000bb but at 2000watts, I feel a need to find a larger terminal block to effectively build them.
If you think outside the box, you can actually put one together capable of handling 2000W + with just the 32A terminal blocks ... just use  some imagination ....

@sidehack - the actual model / description is Dell NY526 PowerEdge 2950 750W Redundant Power Supply
legendary
Activity: 1050
Merit: 1000
I can tell by looking that it won't work on the 750W, at least not the ones I carry.
What's the part number for the Dell 750W PSU's connector if you care to share?

I'd like to build them for the dps 2000bb but at 2000watts, I feel a need to find a larger terminal block to effectively build them.
hero member
Activity: 518
Merit: 500
I can tell by looking that it won't work on the 750W, at least not the ones I carry.
What's the part number for the Dell 750W PSU's connector if you care to share?
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