Topic: Unofficial Spondoolies SP20 thread (Read 125940 times)

Good afternoon, I have an SP20E and it gives me an error .. it does not connect to the pool

stats

LOOP[0] OFF TO:0 (test serial failed)
0: disabled (REMOVED/DISABLED)
1: disabled (REMOVED/DISABLED)
LOOP[1] ON TO:0 (w:0)
 2: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:0 vlt2:688(DCl:794 Tl:794 Ul:749)  0W   0A   0c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 950hz(BL: 950)    0 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
 3: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:0 vlt2:688(DCl:794 Tl:794 Ul:749)  0W   0A   0c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 950hz(BL: 950)    0 (E:192) F:0 L:0]
LOOP[2] ON TO:0 (w:0)
 4: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:0 vlt2:688(DCl:794 Tl:794 Ul:749)  0W   0A   0c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 890hz(BL: 890)    0 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
 5: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:0 vlt2:688(DCl:794 Tl:794 Ul:749)  0W   0A   0c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 830hz(BL: 830)    0 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
LOOP[3] ON TO:0 (w:0)
 6: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:0 vlt2:688(DCl:794 Tl:794 Ul:749)  0W   0A   0c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 890hz(BL: 890)    0 (E:193) F:0 L:0]
 7: DC2DC/1/:[vlt1:0 vlt2:688(DCl:794 Tl:794 Ul:749)  0W   0A   0c] ASIC:[ 85c (125c) 840hz(BL: 840)    0 (E:189) F:0 L:0]


i try everything possible, change cable, factory reset, i disable loop 0 .. and not work please help me

If checking cables/connections doesn't work out, you might also want to try reflashing the ROM image that someone linked above in the event there was some corruption. If neither of those things work, your controller board could be dead.

sounds like a possibly dead controller card.

have u taken it apart to check all connections are snug?

Hey forum,

Please help me out, super frustrated. I have my sp20e hooked up and when I type in my pool's URL and username and everything it says that there is an error with the CGMiner??? What even is that? It says CGMiner Version N/A, CGMiner Status Not running... Also, what is MinerGate? Thoroughly confused. Please help.

Here you go: last standard version 2.6.14 Recovery image to re-flash miner, SD Boot image to run miner of SD Card.

newest is better, but any version works for me, please

I have an SP20

What version are you looking for?

Please, i need the sd recovery image....

Can anybody help me?

Dunno if this has already been answered or not, but recently after I unplugged and re plugged in my PSU to the SP20E I can't connect to it anymore; I try to connect to it but Chrome and other browsers just report that the connection is being refused. The bottom LED seems to light up and go away, then there isn't anything lit up except for the Ethernet port. I've unsuccessfully tried to reflash the miner with my MicroSD; I might've waited less time than required or something of the sort.. not sure if there's any indicator of a completed reflashing of these miners based on LED colors or anything. Before I go try to mess with the miner again, should I give the boot sd a shot? I've been using the recovery files but I figured the booting might be the issue.


Did see something about putting the microsd in with the recovery files and then pulling it out right after the miner reads the files on the sd on the fake sptech site.. haven't tried that out yet, though.

Please Upload to Mega again

Thanks

https://mega.nz/#F!QYdB2ALA!oAde4TeYt8vrrA-fSIQvPA


here are my stored images, i got a few sp20 which i probably gonna deliver to the scrap metal company
The energy prices are so high here that even a s9 would not make any profit EVER

I can't seem to boot either. tried sd recovery and it didn't make any difference. Can anyone provide me the link to sd boot image for sp20?

The pages not be reachable. Please renew the links.

Hi Wayne.
Get the miner ready to run and hold a hair dryer blowing into it for a couple of minutes until it is pretty warm then turn it on. The controller boards are a pain up the ass and this used to work every time.
Hope this gets you running again.

[Forgive if i have posted incorrectly

i have sp20e that when started the fan just runs full speed and wont slow down like it used too also not connecting to network

i beleive it may be the controller board ; does anyone have one ??

regards Wayne

nvm, found them via the wayback machine

http://web.archive.org/web/*/https://storage.googleapis.com/spond_firmware/*

Looking for sd_recovery.rar for SP20

Any current links?

Hi.
If you are very carefull, re-building the hash boards on the SP20's is VERY easy and has amazing benefits.
I no longer own any SP20's but can still do this in my sleep.

Turn off, allow to cool down.
Remove the screws that hold the top lid in place remove top lid.
Carefully remove screws from the controller board, lift up and remove the two ribbons and the fan cable.
Store the controller PCB very carefully!
Take a photo of the routing of the ribbon cables - dont skip it will help!
Remove screws take top chassis off to expose the hash boards.
Down by the fan, pull the small metal plate up and out (might be stiff) hash boards will now slide out.

Now the fun starts.
Im my opinion the assembly of the heat sinks was very poor but you can re-build them.
You need a hacksaw blade and a screwdriver and need to be very carefull!

Unscrew the heatsinks and in most cases they will just pop off. Put to one side.
Where they dont come off VERY CAREFULLY saw with the blade downwards into the block of epoxy and release them.
Take your time and dont rush or you will bugger the hash board.

When all the heatsinks are off do the board work first.
Adjacent to each heat sink there is now a big blob of epoxy resin which stops the heat sink reaching the chips.
Unfortunately this needs to go.

I found the best way to do this was to carefully put PVC tape around the epoxy and saw it off sideways with a hacksaw blade.
There is plenty of room to do it just go nice and slowly and take your time.
Get the cut as close to the PCB as you can.

Use Isopropyl alcohol and lint free wipes and polish the chips to remove ALL the old heatsink compound.
This will be hard and brittle and will probably stick in the gaps between the ASIC and the decoupling caps on the ASIC board.
I used a small flat bladed jewellers screwdriver and scraped it out the way.
Give another clean with alcohol.

Next clean the PCB using spray PCB cleaner to remove the debris.
Spray from the top of the PCB down and clean as much off as possible.
Stand upwards and allow the dry.

Depending on how well you want to do the job I certainly recomend:-

Use the saw blade and remove the copper strips off the heat sinks.
Use alcohol and clean all the heat sinks and copper pads.
Takes a long time to do and is a real pain in the ass.

Next, get some Alloy Wheel Cleaner and throw the heat sinks and copper strips into it and leave for 1 hour.
Remove and clean up. They look brand new and all the pitted corrosion is now gone.
Wash and allow to dry thoroughly.

Now ignore everything about how thick thermal compound should be applied to a chip.
It simply wont work with an SP20 trust me.

Apply a generous amount of thermal compound to the copper plate and locate into position onto the heat sink.
Put into a vise on a work bench and close until VERY tight.
As the thermal compund oozes out the edges, wipe it off.
No oozing, not enough thermal compound so re-do it until you get the hang of it.
I used cheaper conductive compound for this stage.

Next, put a large blob of themal compound (non conductive) onto the ASIC chip, locate the heat sink and tighten up.
Repeat for ALL has boards.

Get two sections of wood and sit the hash cards onto the wood along the edges so the power MOSFET devices on the rear side of the PCB dont touch the ground.
You will understand what I mean.

Next, I sat two lengths of wood over all the ASICS and put a fairly heavy weight on top to apply pressure to the heat sinks.

Mix up some epoxy resin and apply a dab over all four corners of the heat sink to hold it in place.
Get a tiny amount under the heat sink, up the edge so it has a good bind.

Take the fan off the chassis (mine was screwed if you have the rubbers pull them with a pair of long nose plyers) and throw the whole chassis into the allow wheel cleaner along with everything except the PCBs obviously and fan.

Clean the fan using alcohol and cotton buds set to one side.

Take the chassis out, clean with water and allow to dry.

Now go to sleep for the night.

In the morning put it all back together again.

Struggling with routing the ribbon cables, take a look at the photo you took yesterday it will all make sense.

Turn the beast back on and see the cooler chip temps.

Have fun!

Hi,

You can try this Link
http://gofile.me/2pNcR/3iDDLtlxh

Hope this works for you.