Topic: ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread - page 35. (Read 129130 times)

Yup sure can
Heres a 8 hour graph it refreshes everytime i log in so this only spans 30 or so minutes
But as you can see its all over the place and does not match whats in my C1 miner panel
I have tried their geo location servers and manually selecting the nearest server by city name
Have tried all ports 3333 3334 and 3335 which seems to be the most stable of the 3 (3335) is for antminers and dragon miners with a minimum difficulty 2048
I love the pool they seem to be the most steady payout I earn more there than at ghash or antpool
I make the most at slushs but his recent long series of no luck I just cant mine there for 2-3 blocks ad day so i classified him as high risk high reward

now when i do a fresh conect to the pool the graph skyrockets to like 1060GHs but slowly winds back down to the rollercoaster


and just a fresh one you can see it briefly goes over 1000GHs only to ride back down

I assumed you were doing something more adventurous so I didn't mention it

No, router problems would look different.


Network bandwidth per miner with an appropriate difficulty set is ~1 Kb/s, so you could run approximately 1,500 miners on your connection before bandwidth was limiting. Even then, you could just increase miner difficulty.


So... yes.


1) Can you post a picture of the graph please?
2) What are the long term averages, as that is what matters. Miner hash rate varies with random variance, so zooming in too much is incorrect.
3) What miner difficulty do you have set? Running each miner as its own worker or combined on one miner?
4) Can you post a picture of the C1's status page please?

Hey dogie I got a question for you
My hashrate is always all over the place on the pool side  it goes from 700-1000+ up and down all day like a roller coaster in the last 35 mins it has wen from 980 down to 746 back up to 1020 it does this all day long up and down up and down

Could my router be causing this?
I am using this router http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/FS726S750_Manual.pdf the FS750 model
it appears to be a 10/100mbs full duplex router with a gigabit feed module (AG711T module) Copper Gigabit Module Insert - 1000BASE-T  http://support.netgear.com/product/AG711T  that hooks to my brighthouse networks modem that i have 10(MBS)down 3(MBS) up speed package

I get a bit of confusion with these speed ratings
all my antminers together push 3.5 TH/s hashrate how does do convert into internet speed bandwidth requirements?

is a 10/100mbs router switch good enough for hashing?

all my antminer S3's run prettty stable but this C1 is all over the place
Or is it something to do with the connection to the pool. The pools at fault? I just can not believe this roller coaster on the hashrate graph on the pools dashboard. So much variance.

I am mining at https://mining.bitcoinaffiliatenetwork.com/index.php?page=gettingstarted I have tried ports 3333 and 3335 and get the same roller coaster hashrates on their graphing

Oh my god this is amazing.  Thank you!

Why aren't you just going into the GUI menu and selecting the Advanced tab?

Hello, I'm actually trying to UNDERclock the C1, but the SSH isn't working... I'm trying to follow the same steps that I would to under/overclock a S3, but its not working.

I can get in, end up at root@AntC1:~#, but when I try to vim /etc/config/asic-freq/ it says vim not found, and if I try to use vi it opens a blank document.

Any ideas?

Optimal layout is inlet to reservoir on the bottom and outlet on the top, as that would prevent any air accumulating in it. Bubbles always want to rise and will resist quite a bit of flow to avoid travelling downwards. If you're tubes are the wrong way round, you should be able to swap the screws the feet are on without too much trouble and simply flip it over without having to touch the tubing.


By hard reset I mean power off at the PSU. By soft reset I mean "reboot" from the OS.

A few comments about the bubble thing.........

When I set mine up and I saw many pages back in this thread (I read the whole thread twice) where a poster recommended running the pump directly off the pSU so you could bleed the whole system before firing up the miner. Made sense to me.
 I did this as he said with the cap OFF to bleed all the air from the system, running the pump ....but again, the miner itself wasn't running.

It took me over 20 minutes to get most of air out of the system. I would lift and turn every which way the miner (before hooking power cables up makes it easier) and the radiator until I got it to run cleanly. Then I let it run settled for a while, added water and did it some more. After one hour I was satisfied, capped it off and its been nice and cool 36~40.

I strongly suspect that trapped air is the problem for most people overheating boards as well. Think of all the places for air to hide in the water blocks and small radiator tubes. Also, the air moves around and collects before finally making it to the tank.

As far as pressure in the system.....of course there is. You also want it as it, along with most coolants, raises the boiling point.
Your car's cooling system couldn't handle the high temp from the engine without being pressurized.
It also has a cap with a relief it the system gets too hot.
It's also why the cap says DON'T remove it on a hot system.


edit - to make clear about boiling points.

I know. The quality is pretty low. I did buy one from ebay for $40 just to see how it performs and for a secondary back up. All brand name pumps are mega expensive since it really is supposed to be a high quality product.

What's happening is after I wiggle the heck out of my radiator and get ALL the air out of it, work great for a little bit but after a good 10-12 hours the radiator accumulates air pockets. Large enough that I can see my reservoir raise up a little bit. If I shake gently turn the radiator upside down again I can see a huge amount of air bubbles come back out of the radiator. So, somewhere inside the radiator air is being trapped once when there was liquid by itself. Does it matter what port you have the incoming flow going into the radiator, top or bottom? I've seen pictures of both. I'll just wait and see what happens. There is a 90 day warranty on this pump which died from a pump that had a one year warranty on it. Warranties just dropping like flies here. I went from 8 months to 3 months. This is why the consumer always feels we've turned around and bent over. Sorry, but the original warranty "should" still be in place, not lowered.

I'll try the hard reset later. You mean the small hole above the Ethernet port?

I got it wrong,the screw is standard screw,#6-32,American standard.

That is decided by radiator,standard screw doesn't match.Latter I will give you some adivce.

Ah water pumps
Glad to hear you got the bubbler to subside I figured it was either trapped air in the radiator or a return air feed leak.

There are tons of replacement pump options available but these are by far the cheapest pumps on the market. Swifttech makes some nice pumps but they are pricey. Check ebay  and search syscool and swifttech as well as koolance. In theory any 12v water pump would work as long as it meets the minimum specs of the syscool pump

Yeah that sounds about right. Sometimes you really have to rubik's cube the hell out of radiators/blocks to get the air to go through the entire path.



1) Try a hard reset (power supply)
2) Voltage to 725 and a hard reset
3) If that board STILL is dropping out, PM BitmainWarranty to arrange an RMA. Be sure to link to your post describing the issues, what type and how many miners you wish to have repaired/replaced and your bitmaintech.com order number. You'll only have to send back that individual hashing board, although make sure you've got some thermal paste to reapply the new PCB.



That could also be a nice bubble in the impeller, which will tend to stay there. Tilt it about and see if you can get it out (outlet facing up if possible). I'm unsure if you can purchase additional pumps from the US but they do have replacements there if you need them.

Right now my bubble problem seemed to resolve itself. After shaking the radiator and turning it around and back and forth it looked like the last of the air is out of the system. I let the system run for 24 hours and the bubbles subsided. I believe the cause was me, being impatient and not waiting long enough and/or not trying hard enough to get all the air out of the radiator. Temps are 37-38, but hashing went down for some reason to around 900, and I have 5 X's. Miner is already at 755v. Is there another trick to get hashing speed back up to 1000+? What happens if I change the freq to 256 and put the volts back to 725?


Also, I still think the pump was partially damaged during shipping. It does make a light grinding noise when it runs. It shouldn't be making that noise, as my other two are silent. Can I purchase one of these pumps from the Colorado service center? I know this replacement has a 90 warranty, but my guess that grinding noise is going to get worse and just fail, since it is the same exact noise my other failed pump. I guess time will tell.

I posted another picture of the same bubble pump, but around 30 hours later.

It would help, but the flow diverter helps create a higher than expected fluid level on the return. You can see it in the picture that its filled.



That's not what cavitation is.

What is more likely is that the system hasn't been sufficiently bled. Air in the system breeds more air = more bubbles in a vicious cycle. You will likely have to twist and turn both the C1 and radiator while running to get the large air pockets out. As also mentioned below, although you can keep the cap on. Just be careful you're reservoir doesn't get too low and there could be a good 300ml of air in your system which would empty it 2x.

Also worth trying
open the fillport
turn the radiator 360 degress make sure there is no air in it. When setting mine up i had a large amount of air trapped in the radiator until i spun it and the bubble ran out

observer the hosing while running do you see bubble traveling in them or is it only at the pump that they form.

If only at the pump
then check that return feed oring
I lubricated mine with spit before screwing them in, i use white lithium grease when installing o-rings in automobiles, but since i did not know its reaction with theplexi resivor i used some spit
Orings can be problematic when installing if they are not lubricated, lesson learned from paintball and auto mechanics if they roll or get nicked  they can let air seep in or escape, paintball 101 I spit on my paintball orings when changing tanks

and try a non bubbler pump from the other units? if your still getting air bubbles then its somewhere else along the line.

I would suspect air coming in somewhere for sure. Maybe a oring leaking air in? possible water block crack? somewhere you have air being sucked in, and fluid dynamics would say its on the return side, if it waas on the feed side it would be leaking out. But since its on the return side its sucking in.

fluids being pushed -----> presssure ---> leaks out
fluids being pulled <----
Just a theory