Topic: ANTMINER C1 Discussion and Support Thread - page 36. (Read 129130 times)

BitmainWarranty, I think I have a problem with my replacement pump or some yet explained issue that we need to resolve. The pump I just replaced is now doing the same exact thing that my father's pump is doing, making a bubble bath. I'm pretty sure I can visually see the problem and will attach a picture showing you what I mean. What the coolant enters the reservoir from the radiator and hits the diverter it causes cavitation/bubbles. And when that keeps happening the bubbles/foam are a constant and that is not good for the pump itself. If the pump keeps pumping bubbles, it will eventually fail very soon. I even have changed the hoses AND changed the position of them also. Put the top hose on the bottom and the bottom on the top. Same thing. Bubbles. This is very strange, since both of my other C1's have no bubbles at all. I have used the same exact coolant (the same being used in my others C1's) and even emptied that coolant out and used another new bottle for testing. In the picture I provided, I circled a huge bubble that the diverter makes when it gets hit with the incoming coolant. This particular C1 always had 'some' bubbles, but not like this. My other two C1's have zero bubbles. Nothing at all. The only thing I can think of is a defective pump again OR something in my loop is causing micro-bubbles inside the radiator or C1 itself that I cannot see. Is there anyway I can get an RMA for the pump I just received and when I send back my original broken pump I can send back both of them.

I made the image very large so it is easy to see. You'll see one very large bubble circled along with all the other small ones all over.

EDIT: I just changed all hoses, made sure all connections were solid and everything was fine. Still a bubble making machine. I would love to figure this out.

EDIT#2: When I opened the tyvex bag the pump was shipped in the pump box was broken open completely and the pump was out of the box. It was still wrapped in the thin bubble wrap but it could have been possibly damaged during shipping. The pump box didn't seem to be taped properly, hence the box coming open.

That really sucks. Your almost better off maybe using some kind of glue or really skinny tie-wraps. I mean the screws "have" to have a size. They can't be custom to the point where their size isn't on the metric or imperial scale.

He has three C1's. He knows how to operate and maintain them and knows he needs enough coolant in the reservoir. I made sure of that myself. But today his pump just stopped working. It would only run for about 20 minutes then do a complete stop. The pump was the problem and that was what was making all the damn bubbles. It was causing cavitation somewhere, creating all the bubbles and foam. No other moving parts in the system, so the pump is prime suspect, especially when it just fails to operate, something must be wrong inside. So right after one of my pumps died, his died two days later. Syscooling, these pumps are rated for 50,000 hours. That's 2 full years of operating at 24/7 365 days a year. If you are manufacturing them yourselves, better start using better materials or re-design to eliminate failures so early.

i wonder if this could work http://www.grcooling.com/

also of worthy reading http://www.scientific-computing.com/features/feature.php?feature_id=324

Why would you do that?  What if someone like me wants to add 120 by 120 by 15mm fans to the front and back in a push/pull setup?  I'd need 24 screws that are 16 to 20mm and now find that they can't be ordered.

The screw is custom-made and not standard,you can't purchase it from market yourself.

Water and soap do not make a good coolant.

It must be filled enough such that the return tube's flow diverter is submerged.

I have another question. My father owns 3 C1's and one of his pumps is producing high amounts of foam/bubbles. Is there a trick to get rid of these foam/bubbles? It was actually running fine since he got them, but this foam/bubble thing just started. We are using this coolant.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESNVNHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I also want to thank BitmainWarranty for such a fast turn around on my broken pump. I reported it broken yesterday and today I received a replacement pump. I'll be installing it tomorrow.
Thank you.

Anyone know the screw thread size for the radiator (to connect fans to it)?  I purchased some M3 .50 (the same size my other radiators from another brand) and some M4 .70 screws (the size of the one on the Antminers) today, but neither is correct, it seems to be somewhere in between.

I would like to know the reason for this also. WHY does the fill cap need to be closed and tight? I would rather have a loose fill cap and a running miner then one that is slowly building up pressure ready to pop. That's why cars have a vent in their cooling system. System gets just a little warmer then normal, the coolant will flow into the over flow tank and not put too much pressure on all your hoses/connections. If the fill cap is screwed on but not sealed it would take quite a long time for any evaporation to happen that would ever cause a problem. All you need to do is check up on them once in a while, that's all.

Are you worried about losing too much coolant because of evaporation? The cap is closed. But excess pressure can escape.

Agreed.  My pump started leaking a week ago, it was shooting out like a can of coke shook up.  Kept going on for some time spraying coolant every where due to the heat build up.  Bought another pump, just waiting to order another C1 to have 2 in the system, but the Bitcoin value keeps dropping.  Warning to others, keep watch where you have it running, mine ran for a couple weeks, then like many others the pump started leaking.  So glad I was home when it happened and it didn't short out everything.

Not sure they are all the same. My father has 3 C1's running in his basement and on one of his pumps he went to unscrew the fill cap to fill it up a little more and the fill cap went shooting across the room and the coolant started shooting out of the top of the fill hole. There was a huge amount of pressure in that loop and his top temperature was only 41. He had some serious pressure in his loop.  The only thing that could of done that to him was the heat. If there's no vent, it gets stuck in the loop and possibly takes advantage of the weakest areas where it can all leak out. No?

Well, yes, I do keep the cap closed and use a screw driver to close it. I just meant I don't make it real tight. It is a sealed system, so I know it has to be closed. It always did make me wonder where the pressure goes to when the coolant heats up? I guess the loop is rated for some pressure, right?

By the way, what would happen if you don't fully close the fill hole? I've always kept mine closed up, just not very tight. The fill hole screw gasket (O-ring) is definitely making a good seal.

Agreed on this. But realistically there isn't that much pressure build up as the difference in density between 25 and 40C is 0.5% by volume. You've got ductile tubing which isn't rigid and is more than comfortable absorbing that.

Please keep the cap closed!!!!!  if you are worried about the pressure, may be wait until 30's then close the cap nice and tight!!

Can't close the cap tightly because the the heat would create too much pressure in the loop. I keep it loose so there is a vent. And I don't fill all the way to the top, but fairly close.

Doesn't everyone keep the fill hole loose? You don't want too much pressure in the loop. Going from 28 to 40 is going to create a lot of hear and pressure.

I'll let you all know how it takes to receive a new one. The pumps are rated for 50,000 hours. That's 2 years running 24/7. Having ANY of them go bad in the first few months should not happen when they are rated for 50,000 hours.

It's the coolant you recommended off Ebay on the first page of this thread. They currently don't have anymore, but I had some extra.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESNVNHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1