Topic: [Guide] Dogie's Comprehensive Bitmain Antminer S4 Setup [HD] - page 6. (Read 49614 times)

10c/kwh  the heat here is a killer though. Texas summers sometimes get... bad. hehe.

I would do some serious ROI.  What price is your electricity?

Also summer mining can be hard, my advice is build up slow.  This way you don't have way to much heat or other issues.   Heat is something that might take some tinkering to get right.

I looked at a few possibilities other than the manufacturer. They seem a bit hard to find, except at alibaba, which I'm a bit leery of, it's like rolling the dice, sometimes you get a fantastic deal, other times you get screwed. They don't seem to have much inbetween there.   I'm going to give the manufacturer a couple of days or so to respond, It could be just a timing issue.
Though I have to say, I appreciate the advice, even though it seems like I'm dismissing it. I'm not dismissing it. I'll continue the search. hehe. For a future thing though, I have a rental house that the renters just left, I'm thinking about re-doing the electrical with a ton of 220* outlets and just fill that place up with miners eh? hehe. Then I can find loads of psu's that will do what I need, and with less heat and in a few cases, more cost effectively.
but for now I gotta stick with the 110.. for a little while yet.
That got brought up because when I went searching for psu's I found loads of them that would work great, but all 220.
Hell in the end I may try the corsairs out on it anyway, depending on what else happens. 'Cause I'm curious now.
Side note: I've done all kinds of crazy modding/mistreatment of miners and so far I've killed tons of psu's but not one board or chip. Someone needs to think that through when talking about what environment variables a miner can or can't function under. The psu will crap out long before the miner in most cases. oh to clarify, I did NOT mistreat this s4, it was stock speed, etc.. We did have a helluva series of storms though... N. texas near ok border.. so if you heard about tigernados, or some such.. yeah.. it's like that. I assume it was repeated power failures in the the middle of the night just too many times for the poor little guy to take.. or too frequent in a row perhaps. Not sure.. storms make me sleep heavier. hehe.




*the ref to 110 and 220 is simply because so many americans are used to calling 120 and 240 110 and 220, and what can I say.. I'm 'merikan.

Contact bitmain warranty and let them know that you are not able to contact the psu makers.  I'm sure they will help if that turned out to be a dead end.

Have you looked into getting the PSU from a place besides direct from the manufacturer?

Warranty is past, and I asked both about buying a replacement, and if 2 1000w would work (This was before other discussions about it) They were very prompt, asked me which psu, then came back with the 2 1000's should work, but to contact the manufacturer of the psu for everything else.
I took that as a we don't have 'em/we aren't selling any right now etc... The new psu's they are selling I think is why they asked which psu I had to see if it was pci-e connections or the lugs.  They are generally both nice and quick.. a rarity anywhere in the world lately hehehe. Anyway the purchasing question was ignored, I think perhaps because I offered a potential other solution, or they don't have any to spare and sent me to the manufacturer.. who has yet to respond, but it's the weekend, etc.. I'm not sweating it just yet.. but 2th down for days on end has me a bit... tweaky.

Did you contact Bitmain warranty?  They are normally very helpful.    I would think they would help with PSU "ideas". 

As far as replacing that would depend if under warranty or not.  If not under warranty I would think they would sell you a PSU.

An update and potential to laugh a bajula.. and laugh and laugh and laugh.
Bitmain referred me to the manufacturer of the psu. No response from them (apluspower) yet. So I got bored... tore the thing apart. there are only two + coming off the psu and split into 4. So that makes the thick wire makes sense.. that's like a 60a draw. So yeah.. fire waiting to happen.
Revisiting the other psu ideas. ( I need something that will work on 110 btw) So now I'm at taking a modular cpu (8 pin) 18g should carry 40a MAX but I'm only looking at 30 or so. running those to the ends of the original wires - (split into 4 pos 4 neg each with 4 18g spliced in using twist connectors for home electrical wiring ... so that should take it fine. In theory a little over 360W per board (2 boards per plate)

While it 'should' work, and be fine and all... if I don't come back and say anything else.. Either it worked fine and I just went away... (unlikely since I like to talk so much) or I electrocuted myself (moooooostly unlikely - I'm a little paranoid about getting shocked.. ) or I got a replacement psu in before deciding to go splice crazy... probably unlikely otherwise I wouldn't have kept thinking of another way to rig this thing. hehe.

Stay tuned.. there may follow a tale of fire and woe.. or wailing and gnashing of teeth, maybe a tale of pluck, grit and success against all odds.. or maybe a fairy tale romance.. eww ick... no not that one... definitely not that last.

Derp as a side note I just looked up for fun the carrying capacities for wires, 'cause I thought 10g was a bit over the top, the wires seem to be set up to carry a full 100amps at 12v Wow, while that is probably not needed it makes sense if it's more of a heat dissipation problem. Just for future reference. So yeah 18g would probably melt... IF it's not about heat build up, then 3 or so 18g could carry the current for each half-board with no serious problems. I mean what is it, 360-ishw per half-board? So it's pretty much gotta be a build up of heat over time. I'm guessing that is what went wrong with the earlier psu's as I think they had psci-e cables.. maybe I'm wrong there. In any case, thanks once again for saving me from a fire... hehe This last bit was for info in case someone in the future wanted to take another look at the concept.

cool, thanks.. Though I was thinking less, 10g is pretty crazy hehe. 6 "should" do but yeah better to use something else that can take the old wires directly. BETTER is if bitmain will sell me a replacement. dps 2000 then eh? In any case thanks for the response, and thanks for all the info you keep putting up!!!

If you've got a spade terminal variant S4 + PSU, I wouldn't try and convert a consumer PSU as its just not worth it. The s4+ uses 10AWG cables, so you'd need manyx18AWG cables to match that, per terminal, per half board. One of those DPS2000's would be pretty good as you could realistically get quite a few 16AWG cables and add your own spade connectors on. Or cut them off the old PSU and put them on the DPS2000.

Question for anyone and everyone, I had an s4 psu go out on me. has anyone tried replacing the psu with 2 1000w psu's? and does anyone know if I use say corsairs instead of a server psu and breakout board, what issues might arise from several of the small wires run together at the bolt would do to the psu... fine? fire, screaming and running? Something else? I'm contemplating (but wating for responses before attempting) taking the end connectors from the dead psu running a 6 pin stripped, 3 positives clamped/soldered to the end from the old wire, and 3 neg per board (1 psu for the bottom 2 boards and 1 for the top) good idea? bad idea? or meh idea?

Thanks in advance for any time spent on this.

Can someone with the original shipping box please get the dimensions of the box for me. I know the weight is 36 lbs but can't find the box size to create a shipping label.

Thanks

I even re-clocked again at 193 and used 0695 volts. Powered down for a good 30 seconds and then back on. I sacrificed about 100 GH/s, but my fans are about 20% less rpm and chips are down to 41-43 temperature. Man, I was running her so hard at first before I knew what I was doing. Poor unit. 2.5 to 2.7 TH/s and my chips were 50 temperature and 3720 cfm on all four fans. Thank you again for your help, and glad I didn't run a good unit into the ground.

My wife is also much happier with the noise greatly reduced.

Sidenote - I run a plumbing and HVAC business, so I had my shop foreman in the sheetmetal shop make me a 90 degree transition that fits over the back of the entire unit. This rectangle turns up 90 degrees and then transitions into a 6" round duct. I cut a hole in the ceiling of a large closet in my home office and run the exhaust directly into the attic. This alleviated the BTU load of the unit on my central HVAC almost entirely. The door to the closet is louvered so the unit has plenty of air. I live in Texas, so this was an important modification for me. Aside from the BTU load this also muffled the noise 90-95%.

The only issue i had was making a slot for the power cord, so I lose a little exhaust with that, but it is negligible.

If anyone wants a picture I can take one. This application has really worked well .... for the home hobbyist.

No problem. Remember that when you do a voltage change that the unit really needs a hard power off otherwise it won't always set right and the chips might not reinitialise properly.

Good luck.

The x's on the ASIC chain status row #1 turned up almost instantly when I clocked back to 200.

I just now clocked back from 225 to 200 and set voltage at 0705. Seems to be doing great now! Thank You.

That thing was really cranked up at 225 and 0725. High fan CFM and high temps (49-50). I feel much better now. It sounds better and not so loud and hot. Hashing at 1.9 TH/s in lieu of 2.2 - 2.5. All o's.

Thank you, sir!!

Over what period did it drop the board, after a few minutes or days? You will absolutely destroy the PSU at 3TH and most likely at 2.5TH. Can you give us a screenshot of the dashboard?

Underclocking stability seems to be about getting the correct 'integer' of voltage as some are much more stable than others. I remember that 0705 seemed to work well, possibly 695 also. I'm not sure why it does that but 700 for example does nothing for me.

My S4 dropped the first ASIC board when I underclocked to 200. Started by showing x's in seven places, then eventually turned to all dashes under ASIC #1 status.

I reclocked at 225 and 0740 volts and everything is back up and running at all o's. She is running great, but I am worried that I am running her too hard. 2.5 TH/s on average. EDIT - She runs at up to 3 TH/s for long periods at this frequency. I just checked and this worries me.

Will I destroy the S4 at these rates? If I underclock, is there anyway to keep all 4 ASICs running properly?

thanks a bunch

200 or less, its up to you if you want hashrate or efficiency. S4s won't work well with multipool as it switches coin, even if you can force a high difficulty. S3s should be set at 512.

Hi there

What is the recommended frequency to run these S4 at, currently at 200.

By the way moved to BTC guild getting full hash rate (thanks) - first had it linked up to multipool - couldn't get it to register full power.

Gonna move my S3's to this pool what would be the best diff to set the worker for these.