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Topic: Swedish ASIC miner company kncminer.com - page 301. (Read 3049515 times)

member
Activity: 84
Merit: 10
Kinex - The New Frontier
Those damned data ribbons are ridiculously short, which makes a mess, but here they are.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T2mziEZ42U 1.0 firmware flashed onto it around 1am last night.  The PSU's were an issue. /some of the ax1200's work, and some don't.... I have no idea why. With 2 cubes on a 1200, some dies didn't fire no matter what voltage tweaking I did. As soon as I replaced the psu's corresponding to the defunkt asics, everything perked right up. They are both @ 100% "stock" settings. They run about 3.4th/s a piece average. High temps. Barely had enough time being my stay was 24 hours(on me b-day)and of course family was showing their love by throwing a mini party, which was a total distraction to the task at hand; but at least we got to visit a bit, and the "Job is done"... hopefully it doesn't catch fire...   Wink
PS The cubes with a single cx600 seem to run the best, but there wasn't time enough to "solidify" that observation.
 
so, right at .01BTC /day each.  Hopefully the diffstall holds.

Thanks for posting a "live" look at a functioning Neptune!  I'd be interested in seeing your solar array too! 

Hope they play nice, and stay hashing w/o any hiccups ...

newbie
Activity: 35
Merit: 0
Thanks a bunch u27
sr. member
Activity: 266
Merit: 250
Is it recommended to update to f/w 1.0? If so, how do I do it? (I have the bin file)
Seriously? Have  you checked and sifted around the options and buttons on your miners built-in webUI? Even the Jupiter manual can help you with that. Us old school guys here worked our asses off to get information and let me tell you, it's all in this thread, so maybe take some time to do a search and/or read up. Sometimes in life you need to do things on your own and not have people do it for you. Smiley

Seriously? I think it is now generally accepted that nobody is going to read this whole thread having joined the party late; it's just not practical any more.

Also (if you sifted around the last few pages of this thread you would see) the web front end was not working properly for me and I thought I heard an SD mentioned.

I do appreciate all the work you guys did fixing KfC blunders on the last generation/

I do try to help people out when sometimes I know stuff; so it's nice to be able to ask a simple question that's going to take somebody 2 seconds to answer rather than actually being competent with *nux.

Long story short; doing things on my own is hard Sad


I read the previous posts and found ppl are discussing on a PCI-e 2-to-1 adapter. I thought such 6pin-to-molex is with the same function to evenly distribute the elec current to prevent overheating. Besides, the 6pin-to-molex cable is much easier to get than 2-to-1 PCI-e.

Could you provide the link on the hazard using three wires?
Link? No.  What the hell, give that molex to pci-e a try.  

Sorry aasl, the guys are correct. The benefit of the cables I made is that they take the 12v power from PSU to PCI-e through 16 cables thus spreading the load. The cablex ones use 12 thicker cables to carry the power to the PCI-e so either way tons of capacity. Your molex to PCI-e on the other hand uses four cables (two out of the six are 5v I think) thus making it 50% worse than the KfC effort using six cables. In order to make a molex to PCI-e which would be as effective as one of the cablex 2to1 PCI-e you would would have to make a 6to1 molex to PCI-e cable using lower AWG cables than the ones shown in your picture/

Hello all, from north america and i got the electrician coming to do the change of 120 to 220v ..my question is how many amps would each neppy pull?? Will each neppy need more than 15 amps? I have 4 incoming batch 2

Thanks and i apologize as i am a newb

220v AC is much more efficient at shifting wattage than 110v AC; watts=amps*volts so you're looking at half the amps on a 220v circuit compared to 110v.

Approx 2kW per Neptune divide by 220v = 9A per Neptune

40A breaker would be cutting it a bit fine for 4xNeppy so a 60A breaker (or 2x30A/4x15A) @ 220v would give you a nice factor of safety around 50%.

u27

EDIT:
No problem; also you said 120v so you might be looking at 240v... doesn't make much difference.
newbie
Activity: 35
Merit: 0
Hello all, from north america and i got the electrician coming to do the change of 120 to 220v ..my question is how many amps would each neppy pull?? Will each neppy need more than 15 amps? I have 4 incoming batch 2

Thanks and i apologize as i am a newb

EDIT : reading previous post very helpful thanks^
sr. member
Activity: 386
Merit: 250
huge posh shrunken for ininterested folks to easily scroll past
Code:
This has all been asked, and answered multiple times by others, in a lot of different ways.
I'll add to the confusion :)

Neptune power info.

The approximate approximations.

(Neptune Advanced page Watts)  + (15% for VRMs) + (10-20% for PSU) = Watt @ wall.

ASSUME stuff is gonna use more for safety.

A shortcut is add ~33% to ASIC Watt for wall Watt.
Another shortcut is subtract 25% from wall for ASIC.
SSDD

A typical example:

Neptune Advanced reports
1500 Watt
That is how much the ASIC consumes.

To find out how much 12 VDC to feed the VRM to get 1500W out, add about 15%
1725Watt
That is how much PSU you need minimum, if ya blink it's gone in a puff smoke.

To find out how much WATTAGE you need at the wall add about 17.5% (unless a 90+ PSU @ 50% of capacity)
2,027 Watt
@ the wall.

If you start at the wall you get different results not a perfect method.

Also important is the amount of Amps(current) needed in each wire in the system.

Cool Wires care about Amps(current ). Goog "AWG"
Wire INSULATION and nekkid wire spacing cares about voltage.

Watt / Volt = Amps

2000 Watt / 240VAC = ~8.5 Amps per Neptune.

2000 Watt / 120VAC = ~17 Amps per Neptune, more than some 120V circuit.

1725 Watt / 12 VDC = ~144 Amps. 'rail' in PSU needs more.

Each cube wants ~30 Amps to single PCIe connector.
10 Amps per wire.
if one wire fails
15 Amps on remaining 2 wires.
Modular PSU have twice the exposure with connectors on each end of wire.
A hot END of a PCIe might indicate a connector issue before smoke if different between cubes.


It is possible to MAKE 240VAC at home with 120VAC, may not be safe, wise, or legal.
You NEED the ability to measure 240VAC for it to work.
I do not advocate it (nor ever do it if it is ill-eagle where I live),
just a creative solution that has flaws.
Most 120VAC houses have 2 'legs' split among the breakers.
Every other breaker is a different leg usually.
2 plugs on different 'legs' will have 240 between the black(USA) wires. (small prong on USA outlets with large/small)
You usually have to check between  'ideal' outlets and further ones till ya get 240VAC,
measured between the small prong in an extension cord and the small prong in different wall outlet.
If those were connected to the sides of a 240 wall outlet (6-20P) mounted in the proper enclosure,
you can run a 240 supply in an unmodified 120V house.
Could also have 120 available on seperate socket, black from one side and white from same side. Unused white wire can be covered with wirenut.
Metal enclosure and mounting mandatory, get the ones with rounded corners!
They sell cable exits to install in the enclosure knockout holes for the wall plugs.
They sell couplers to join boxes together.
The boxes often have different size knockouts.
Get the ones that fit the knockout plan you want to use.
Or make it work with what you end up with, lol.
If extension cords are involved go big 12/3 or calc what U can get away with for the length.
DO NOT NEGLECT THE GROUND wires, screw them all to the same place in the box if possible.

Then things like large PSU USED for $50 become possible.
https://litecointalk.org/index.php?topic=5854.0

Still gotta connect them though.
https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=379677.0

2kW connector boards soon(would also work for DPS 2500, 1800, & 1600),
750W PSU connector, I think he had some 750 bundles. Be sure to get a PSU with published input voltage as apropriate.
The 750 PSU's last I looked were $10 a pop on Ebay.
$40 for 3kW USED but are not the only things needed.

I think
sidehack https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?action=profile;u=130792
 and
CABLEZ https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?action=profile;u=54059
both make PCIe wires for coin.
Others have mentioned similar PCIe solutions here too, check them out.

You need wall power cables too.

No claims to anything above regarding calculations, ideas, vendor apropriateness.
I pre-ordered some DPS-2000 boards.
All I know for sure is the pics look cool!

Flexability, options, backup, food for thought.

YMMV
:)

hero member
Activity: 700
Merit: 504
Run a Bitcoin node.
Alright, I have finished a process for making a heavy duty 2:1 PCIe adapter for Neptune owners.  It is made with 16AWG wires and minifit HCS (high current system) pins capable of 13A.  It is tricky to make with crimping two 16 gauge wires together but I soldered the pins to the wires after crimping for best contact.  I cannot guarantee that the nylon housings at the pcb won't melt so be sure there is some airflow there.

Here she is:


Pricing is $8 each with discounts for larger orders.  Shipping will be priority mail with tracking which is $6 for US and $24 for international.
Please PM if you are interested.  Thanks
Thanks Cablez for a great product!

I purchased 10 of these from Cablez, they look exactly as the picture above. Professional product, very well packaged. Promptly made and delivered all the way to New Zealand.

I paid Cablez directly in BTC, and he manufactured and posted the cables to me. These allow me to use my 2xCorsair AX1200i PSUs without tripping the 20A limit per PCIe cable.



Hi, could you post links to this cables ??
please
I would buy for my neptune
thanks
Just PM the user Cablez - details are in his quote above.

Update: thanks to these PCIe 2-to-1 cables, my Corsair AX1200i PSUs are running my Neptune at 475MHz for every ASIC, netting me 3.4 TH/s at the pool!  I just got it going this afternoon, I want to keep an eye on it on the normal setting before I try any overclocking.  After about an hour I checked all the cables, none of them were warm, even at the point where they connect to the Neptune module.  I'll check again tomorrow after it has been running for a day (I'm not running my Neppy at home at the moment).
member
Activity: 119
Merit: 10
Alright, I have finished a process for making a heavy duty 2:1 PCIe adapter for Neptune owners.  It is made with 16AWG wires and minifit HCS (high current system) pins capable of 13A.  It is tricky to make with crimping two 16 gauge wires together but I soldered the pins to the wires after crimping for best contact.  I cannot guarantee that the nylon housings at the pcb won't melt so be sure there is some airflow there.

Here she is:


Pricing is $8 each with discounts for larger orders.  Shipping will be priority mail with tracking which is $6 for US and $24 for international.
Please PM if you are interested.  Thanks
Thanks Cablez for a great product!

I purchased 10 of these from Cablez, they look exactly as the picture above. Professional product, very well packaged. Promptly made and delivered all the way to New Zealand.

I paid Cablez directly in BTC, and he manufactured and posted the cables to me. These allow me to use my 2xCorsair AX1200i PSUs without tripping the 20A limit per PCIe cable.



Hi, could you post links to this cables ??
please
I would buy for my neptune
thanks
hero member
Activity: 784
Merit: 1004
Glow Stick Dance!

I read the previous posts and found ppl are discussing on a PCI-e 2-to-1 adapter. I thought such 6pin-to-molex is with the same function to evenly distribute the elec current to prevent overheating. Besides, the 6pin-to-molex cable is much easier to get than 2-to-1 PCI-e.

Could you provide the link on the hazard using three wires?
Link? No.  What the hell, give that molex to pci-e a try. 

And when you're finally released from the burn ward, let us know how it went.
legendary
Activity: 1512
Merit: 1000

I read the previous posts and found ppl are discussing on a PCI-e 2-to-1 adapter. I thought such 6pin-to-molex is with the same function to evenly distribute the elec current to prevent overheating. Besides, the 6pin-to-molex cable is much easier to get than 2-to-1 PCI-e.

Could you provide the link on the hazard using three wires?
Link? No.  What the hell, give that molex to pci-e a try. 
legendary
Activity: 1274
Merit: 1000
Personal text my ass....
it was "screen -r cgminer" on my Saturn

That has done it, thanks.

Now I get to see 2.9TH and a screen full of "disabled for 300 seconds due to repeated hardware errors". Way more disabled cores than accepted shares.

Is it recommended to update to f/w 1.0? If so, how do I do it? (I have the bin file)

Seriously? Have  you checked and sifted around the options and buttons on your miners built-in webUI? Even the Jupiter manual can help you with that. Us old school guys here worked our asses off to get information and let me tell you, it's all in this thread, so maybe take some time to do a search and/or read up. Sometimes in life you need to do things on your own and not have people do it for you. Smiley
sr. member
Activity: 476
Merit: 250
By default, KnC uses UTC time. If you want to view the time according to your timezone, here is a simple way to do it:

1. find your TimeZone name:
Here is the list of all TZ names: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_tz_database_time_zones
Choose your timezone from the "TZ" column

2. SSH to KnC

3. use editor (e.g. vi) to open this file: /etc/profile

4. add this line to the end of the file:
   alias date="TZ=$YOUR_TZ_NAME$ date"

remember to replace $YOUR_TZ_NAME$ (including two $) with your timezone name. e.g. if you live in Berlin, you will have:

alias date="TZ=Europe/Berlin date"

5. save the file.

6. run this command to make it work:
. /etc/profile     (note that there is a dot in the beginning)

And the change will take effect. Both cgminer output and web controlling page will show your local time. Enjoy!
legendary
Activity: 938
Merit: 1000
LIR DEV
Those damned data ribbons are ridiculously short, which makes a mess, but here they are.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T2mziEZ42U 1.0 firmware flashed onto it around 1am last night.  The PSU's were an issue. /some of the ax1200's work, and some don't.... I have no idea why. With 2 cubes on a 1200, some dies didn't fire no matter what voltage tweaking I did. As soon as I replaced the psu's corresponding to the defunkt asics, everything perked right up. They are both @ 100% "stock" settings. They run about 3.4th/s a piece average. High temps. Barely had enough time being my stay was 24 hours(on me b-day)and of course family was showing their love by throwing a mini party, which was a total distraction to the task at hand; but at least we got to visit a bit, and the "Job is done"... hopefully it doesn't catch fire...   Wink
PS The cubes with a single cx600 seem to run the best, but there wasn't time enough to "solidify" that observation.
 
so, right at .01BTC /day each.  Hopefully the diffstall holds.
sr. member
Activity: 476
Merit: 250
anyone is using a 6pin-to-molex adaptor to distribute the current to prevent overheat? does it work?


There already stands concern with drawing 400W of power over 3 wires, I would hazard a guess that trying to pull that type of power over 2 wires is not very smart.

I read the previous posts and found ppl are discussing on a PCI-e 2-to-1 adapter. I thought such 6pin-to-molex is with the same function to evenly distribute the elec current to prevent overheating. Besides, the 6pin-to-molex cable is much easier to get than 2-to-1 PCI-e.

Could you provide the link on the hazard using three wires?
legendary
Activity: 1512
Merit: 1000
anyone is using a 6pin-to-molex adaptor to distribute the current to prevent overheat? does it work?

There already stands concern with drawing 400W of power over 3 wires, I would hazard a guess that trying to pull that type of power over 2 wires is not very smart.
sr. member
Activity: 476
Merit: 250

true! my 850w PSU does not shut down, but the PCI-e cables become very hot (especially near the PSU connector). I am worried that such huge current will make the cable/connector melted.

I just come across an idea: many graphic cards have a 6pin-to-double-molex cable.


If we have two molex cable connecting to the PSU, and then connect to this cable, will it solve the problem?

anyone is using a 6pin-to-molex adaptor to distribute the current to prevent overheat? does it work?
hero member
Activity: 798
Merit: 1000
I'd put money on they did this on purpose Smiley i mean really...do they want all those neppys raising diff. rate so they make less on their DC? i don't think so, I'm just surprised they actually sent out working units...well for the most part...I mean they already designed to fail as fast as possible pretty much with running everything as close to max as they could...surprised they didn't put little jugs of gasoline in there for you guys lol
lol +1

edit
A man pointing a plastic gun is telling you not to buy from KNC!
http://www.maxkeiser.com/2014/07/psa-do-not-buy-the-3-ths-knc-box-sustainability-of-small-scale-bitcoin-mining/comment-page-1/
sr. member
Activity: 386
Merit: 250

The other three dies on that cube work for the most part so I think cable issues are unlikely to be the cause; I have tried swapping that cube with another one i.e. different PCI-e cable, different PSU, different ribbon, different beagle socket/

I managed to get the firmware uploaded; must have tried 8 or 9 times that timed out and then it worked for no apparent reason. Now I have no advanced tab and additional errors:


Might one die be overheating before you even have a chance to look

Did you visually inspect the ASIC/heatsink mating?
Mis-installation is possible, piece of grit got in there?.
The aluminum plate needs inspected too the VRMs at the end of the "E" need cooled.

If you have similar FW upload issue in the future, possibly run controller without cubes.
It might be too busy freakin out about something to pay attention.

YMMV
Smiley
hero member
Activity: 784
Merit: 504
Dream become broken often

What is safe voltage to increase to?

u27

I have gone all the way up on a few dies for a few minutes. Usually this did not encourage them much. What did work for most dies is power cycling the cube while the controller card runs. There are more steps in Kurt's troubleshooting post that involve resetting the miner. I had to do this about 20-25 times in the first week.

If you reset 25 times and it still doesn't work then you'll be ready to RMA that cube. I had to do this with two of my cubes and a controller card. Sad again with insufficient packaging. I don't know who would think a single cardboard strip would survive transport. Cubes were all over the place in one box, their metal shell bent on some.

I'd put money on they did this on purpose Smiley i mean really...do they want all those neppys raising diff. rate so they make less on their DC? i don't think so, I'm just surprised they actually sent out working units...well for the most part...I mean they already designed to fail as fast as possible pretty much with running everything as close to max as they could...surprised they didn't put little jugs of gasoline in there for you guys lol
member
Activity: 67
Merit: 10

What is safe voltage to increase to?

u27

I have gone all the way up on a few dies for a few minutes. Usually this did not encourage them much. What did work for most dies is power cycling the cube while the controller card runs. There are more steps in Kurt's troubleshooting post that involve resetting the miner. I had to do this about 20-25 times in the first week.

If you reset 25 times and it still doesn't work then you'll be ready to RMA that cube. I had to do this with two of my cubes and a controller card. Sad again with insufficient packaging. I don't know who would think a single cardboard strip would survive transport. Cubes were all over the place in one box, their metal shell bent on some.
sr. member
Activity: 266
Merit: 250
Also Elenelen reports it can take some time to load so give it a few minutes. Worst case, use putty to login and edit the VRM config file manually then reboot.
If you can't bring up the advanced tab try clearing browser cache.
I managed to get the advanced page; I think you have to initiate it by clicking that tab but it never wants to load the first time after restart. So to get advanced tab just flick to it and then to something else before going back to advanced tab.

Lots of errors are usually accompanied by the affected die showing it's not running with 0v 0a on the advanced page.

Yes, 0A and 0v for those two DC/DC.

I've had that a few times as I have been tweaking the voltages and speeds to get the best out of mine.

I can't even get that one running at 50Mhz.

When it happens a 'reboot' won't usually fix it, so I would give the affected die more volts and/or drop the speed, apply the settings then physically power off the miner, most times it then comes back to life

Thanks for the tip, but no joy.

how many TH you was? 3TH/s?

2.9... KnC still haven't delivered a 3TH machine or a refund.

1.1.x is ASIC 2 die 2, increase the V on that die. As Tiggger said that's an indication that the die/VRMs have turned off.

What is safe voltage to increase to?

u27
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